This section is from the book "A Practical Treatise On The Joints Made And Used By Builders", by Wyvill J. Christy. Also available from Amazon: Practical treatise on the joints made and used by builders.
A strip of this material is occasionally used as a weather joint on a casement sill.
This arises in joinery when dados, etc, are keyed by means of stiff tapering pieces dovetailed, but not glued, into cross grooves, to allow shrinkage and extension ; and again when, in other cases, short slip feathers or small pieces of hard wood of different shapes, likewise termed keys, are set with glue into saw kerfs, etc, to help to bind connected parts together. Hammer-headed key joint and mitre joint keyed are illustrations of this variety.
Keyed Joint is an alternative term for key joint.
Keyed Mitre Joint is another name for mitre joint keyed.
A form of joint in which the dovetails appear only on one side, as in Fig. 116, the holes in the other side being stopped short of the face.
To all appearances this joint is merely mitred, the pins and sockets of the dovetails being concealed, as they are only cut through about two-thirds of the thickness of the boards, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 117. The projecting lap on each board is mitred all the way down, and the edges at the top and bottom, or at all events at the top, mitred right through.
Lapped and Tongued Mitre Joint is made occasionally between boards, and is formed by rebating them both, as shown in Fig. 118, mitring them slightly at the angle, and keying them with a cross tongue.
Lapped Mitre Joint is used for joining boards of the same or a different thickness, and is made by rebating one of them, mitring only a small portion at the angle, and securing with nails. Fig. 119 gives a section of it.
Lateral Joint in joinery occurs between the edges of boards, and has various specific names, of which two of the commonest are, perhaps, the square edged and the grooved and tongued. It is the same as a longitudinal joint.
This runs parallel to the fibres of the stuff, and is well exemplified in the seams between different descriptions of boarding and lining.
The common mitre is made by bevelling off the edges of each board to an angle of 45°, and bntting the edges together with the arrises in contact as in Fig. 120, but for any other variety of mitre the boards need not necessarily be of equal thickness, and the cut edges may be of any obliquity, the only condition being that each piece must be cut to the same angle. The common mitre is constantly met with in joiners' work, particularly at the intersections of window bars, the corners of square panelling where mouldings have been planted in, and also at the salient angles of skirtings, borders to hearths, etc. In order to bring the ends of the pieces to a proper angle to make a good mitre, the joiner uses a tool called a mitre block, or box, the latter containing vertical saw kerfs or grooves intersecting at an angle of 45°, and the work being closely pressed against the box, the saw is almost necessarily made to effect the requisite clean and oblique cut. Mitre shoots are also used to guide planes in smoothing off the bevelled surfaces. Mitre and Butt Joint occurs as in Fig. 121, when two boards of different thicknesses are united together by bevelling the thinnest throughout the entire edge, and the thicker of the two to the same extent and angle, whereby a combination of the butt and mitre is produced. It presents facilities for nailing, and no opening in shrinking externally appears.
Mitred and Cross Tongued Joint is synonymous with mitre joint keyed.