There are two general places where these fire-stops should be constructed: in the vertical walls to cut off concealed drafts and in the horizontal floors to act as barriers between one floor and the next. A fire which starts in the cellar can be confined for some time from spreading upward if the ceiling is covered with metal lath and plaster and all the possible vertical openings in the walls are stopped with concrete, mineral wool, or other effective material. On the other hand, a fire which starts in the attic may spread to the lower stories by sparks dropping down inside of the partitions, unless they are properly fire-stopped.

It is very important, however, to have fire-stops carefully built, for when gas is heated to the temperature of combustion it will pass through very small crevices, setting fire to the materials on the other side. It only requires a temperature of 1000° F. to ignite wood, and if the air is this hot, although it may appear harmless, it will set fire to whatever combustible material it touches. For this reason, fire-stops carelessly installed are as good as none. As an example of this, blocks of wood are sometimes used between the studs as a fire-stopping material, but, as it requires time to fit this material in place, small cracks are often left between the blocks and the studs, which permit the heated gases easily to pass through them to the other side. This is also true when bricks are used for fire-stops. As the average stud is only about 3 3/4" inch wide, and the average brick is 4 inches, it is impossible to fill the space between the studs with bricks, laid flatwise, but they must be set on edge, leaving a wide crevice which must be filled in with mortar. This is often poorly done or omitted entirely, making the brick fire-stop inadequate.

In enumerating the places where fire-stops should be built, the most important ones are the blocking of the space between the plaster and furred brick wall at each floor level and the closing of the air-space in exterior stud walls at each floor (Figs. 1, 2, 3). The filling in of the hollow space at the base of every interior stud partition is likewise necessary (Fig. 4). A wooden cornice banks up the heat from any neighboring fire, and it is advisable to fire-stop the space around the ends of the rafters where they join with the ceiling joists over the plate (Fig. 5). Where the second floor of the house projects out over the perch, it should be filled with fire-stopping material, not only for safety against fire but also to keep out the cold in the winter (Fig. 6). The pockets into which sliding doors roll should be lined with gypsum board, not only as a fire retardant but also to prevent cold drafts from coming out of these pockets (Fig. 7). The plaster should be carried down behind all wooden wainscots as a fire-stop (Fig. 8). The space between the stair carriage should also be closed at each story (Fig. 9), and all chases and ducts should be filled at each floor level. Wherever exposed pipes pass through horizontal parts of the house they should be run through sleeves. Wherever hot-air flues go from one floor to the next they should be packed around with incombustible material (Fig. 10), and all registers in floors should be insulated in the same way. The space between floor-joists and chimneys must also be filled in with fire-stopping materials.

Fire stopping of furred, off space, in brick, wall

Fire stopping of furred, off space, in brick, wall.

Fig 1.

Fire  stopping of furred off space in brick. wall

Fire -stopping of furred off space in brick. wall.

Fire stop at base of exterior stud wall Fig 3

Fire stop at base of exterior stud wall Fig 3.

Fire atop for interior bearing, partition of studs. Fig.4

Fire atop for interior bearing, partition of studs. Fig.4.

Fire, stop at end of rafters

Fire, stop at end of rafters.

Fire stop in ceiling of porch roof where 2nd floor projects over Fig 6

Fire stop in ceiling of-porch-roof where 2nd floor projects over Fig 6.