All outside finish, unless otherwise specified, to be worked from (clear) (good) thoroughly seasoned white pine (cypress, redwood) in strict accordance with elevation and detail drawings and to be put up in a skillful manner, with close joints and nails sunk for puttying. Joints exposed to the weather to be matched and painted with thick white lead before putting the pieces together.
Cornices. - The main cornice is to be supported by false rafters, sawed from (3x8-inch) white pine (cypress or redwood), free from large or loose knots, dressed on the two sides and securely fastened to the plate and rafters by 40d. spikes. Cut plank headers between the common rafters, to secure the end of false rafters, where necessary.
•If the house is to be back plastered, the Byrkitt-Hall sheathing lath should be used. See Section 143.
Rafter ends to be spaced uniformly (20 inches) on centres. Put a 10-inch moulded frieze board on the walls, directly under the rafters, and cut an 8-inch board between the rafters and against the frieze. To be gained 2/8inch into the rafters.
Coyer the overhang of eaves with 4x 7/8-inch matched pine ceiling, face side down, and over this with common sheathing.
Finish the outer edge of cornice with (1x4-inch) crown mould and (1¼ x4½-inch) facia.
Gutter on Roof. - Form the gutters on the roof with (1 ¼x4-inch) cypress strips set on edge and nailed to the roof over the shingles, and put up (1¾x3x5-inch) sawed pine brackets, set (30 inches) apart. The gutters to have a fall to outlets equal to x inch in 20 feet. The eaves of dormers to be finished in the same manner as the caves of house, but with (3x6-inch) rafter ends and without a gutter.
Box Cornice. - Form the cornice on ell with (1x4-inch) crown mould (7/8x4½-inch) facia, (7/8x10-inch) planceer, 8-inch frieze and (1x2-inch) sprung bed mould.
[Dentils, carved mouldings, brackets, frieze ornaments, etc, if any, to be described here.]
Cornice with Wooden Gutter (Fig. 129). - Finish the eaves with rafter ends dressed and sawed to a pattern, as shown on detail drawings ; jx8-inch moulded frieze against the wall, with a 7/8-inch board cut between the rafters and gained \ inch into them, and driven down against the frieze to make a tight joint. Cover the overhang with jx4-inch matched and beaded ceiling, face side down, and over this with the common sheathing.
Finish the edge of eaves with 4x6-inch cypress gutter with 1 1/8x4-inch facia under, and ¼-inch cove moulding, as shown on section drawing, the back of the gutter to be open. Gutter to be in as long lengths as practicable, and where necessary to piece, to be lined with sheet lead 4 inches each side of joint.
Raking Cornice. - Form the raking cornice with (crown mould stuck to intersect with the crown mould on the eaves) 4½-inch facia, 7/8x10-inch planceer, 10-inch moulded frieze and 2 ½x 7/8-inch sprung bed mould (dentiles, brackets, etc.).
Verge Boards. - Finish the gable ends with 1 1/8x10-inch verge boards, paneled as shown on drawings, by planting on¾ x2-inch strips, and with (turned rosettes in the small panels). Finish above the verge board with 1x4-inch crown mould. The ▼erge boards to set 12 inches from the wall and to be supported by 2x4-inch lookouts 2 feet apart. Cover the soffit with 3X7/8-inch matched and beaded pine ceiling, with 6-inch boards against the wall and 2x7/8-inch bed mould.
Belts. - Form the belts at base of front gable and at second floor level, by putting on furrings over each stud on top of the sheathing (boarding) and putting a second boarding outside brought to a feather edge at the top. Finish under the projection with Jx6-inch board over the siding and 1x7-inch sprung moulding (or brackets, dentiles, etc., according to the character of the finish).
[Describe any other belts there may be on the house.]
Base and Water Table. - The sides of house next to piazza and porch to have
(1 3/8 x6-inch) base rebated on top and with a small level. Base to stop against piazza posts.
Elsewhere, form a water table just above the underpinning, as shown by scale detail (Fig. 156). The top piece to have a feather edge and the clapboards to come down over it. (Flash behind the clapboarding and 1 ¼-inch on water table with long strips of zinc, 3 inches wide, nailed the sheathing.)
Comer Boards. - Put (l 1/8x4-inch) corner boards on all external angles where the wall is covered with siding (or clapboards) with a single strip 1 1/8x3 inches at internal angles
Other. Outside Finish. - [Any special outside finish, such as pilasters, architraves, etc., should be specified here.]
Carving. - Furnish and put up all carved work shown on the drawings, to be executed by a skilled carver in strict accordance with the detail drawings and from the best quality of white pine (whitewood or cypress).
(All carved panels or ornaments must be worked from the solid and not planted on. Before any carving is done the contractor must submit a full-size clay or plaster model to the architect for approval.)
Composition Work. - Furnish and put up the ornamental composition work where indicated on the elevation drawings. The work to be executed by a skilled modeler in strict accordance with the detailed drawings and put up in the best manner.
Scuttle. - Make scuttle (2 feet x 2 feet 6 inches) in roof where directed. To have plank frame, 6 inches high, and cover formed of 7/8-inch flooring and 1 1/8x3-inch cleats, with 7/8 x2-inch strip around the edge. Cover to be hung with heavy strap lunges and to have iron bar fastenings and fixtures to keep it open at any desired angle. Frame and cover to be tinned by the tinner.
[If the scuttle is in a deck roof the specifications should call for permanent steps or ladder, from the attic floor ; or if the space below is finished, for a portable ladder, to be left on the premises.]
Skylight. - [If there is a wooden skylight on the roof it should be specified here. See Section 128.]