Cover all roofs, except those marked to be tinned, with one layer of Neponset waterproof paper, with 2-inch lap, and best quality of sawed cedar (cypress, redwood) shingles, laid 4 inches to the weather [see Section 130] and nailed with two (galvanized) nails to each shingle.

(All shingles to be dipped (8 inches) in pure boiled linseed oil (Cabot's creosote stain. No. - ) by the (painter) before laying.)

Finish the hips by laying a course of (4-inch) shingles parallel with the hips on each side, over the other shingles, and each course lapping the other alternately. The shingles to be laid to a straight edge so that the angle will be perfectly straight.

[For other methods of forming hips, see Section 131.]

Finish the ridge with 6x|-inch saddle boards, tongued and grooved together (or, the ridges will be covered by a galvanized iron cresting, as specified elsewhere).

Flashing and Tinning. - All flashing to be of Merchant's or Taylor's Old Style tin, painted both sides before laying, to be IX. for the valleys and gutters and IC elsewhere (or 16-ounce copper); all to be furnished and painted by the tinner, and pot on by him, with the exception of the tin shingles, which are to be worked in with the shingles by the carpenter.

[In many localities the carpenter puts on all of the flashing, buys the tin and cuts it up himself.]

Valleys (open). - Line the main valleys with strips of tin, 20 inches wide, with end joints locked and soldered. The valleys formed by dormer roofs to be lined with tin 14 inches wide.

[Close valleys - see Section 133 - should be specified as follows:

Form the valleys by working pieces of tin, 9x14 inches, in each course of shingles.]

Flash against the chimneys sides of dormers, where the porch roof joins the wall, and all rising parts, with tin, cut to turn up (3 inches) on the wall or chimney and 3 inches on the roof. Where tin "shingles" are used they are to be not less than 7x6] inches.

Cover the "crickets" behind the chimneys with tin turned up 4 inches on the roof and 3 inches against the chimney.

Furnish wide tin apron, to go under dormer sills, and carried up and nailed on the inside

Counter flash all flashing against brick or stonework with 4-pound lead, wedged (built) into the joints of the masonry at least 1 inch, with lead wedges, and turned down over the flashing to within 1 inch of the roof. Point above the flashing with elastic cement.

Tin the curb and cover of scuttle, to make a tight job.

Do any and all other flashing necessary to make the roof tight, and stop all leaks caused by workmen.