Walls

Furnish all materials and build walls and footings as shown on drawings, of good local stone in irregular courses, the first twelve inches to be laid dry in the trenches, and the remainder to be laid in "half-cement" mortar. The whole to be laid to a line on outside face, well bonded; the joints to be thoroughly filled with mortar, and all to be pointed inside and outside the whole height, holding the trowel so as to weather the pointing on the outside.

There shall be at least one through bond-stone to every ten square feet of wall.

Carefully bevel the walls to receive the sills, and embed in mortar.

Cellar window-sills to have wash formed with Portland cement.

Cement Coating

To be given outside of wall below grade on the up-hill side of building, from bottom to finished grade, of mortar composed of one part Portland cement to one part sand.

Cut out joints of exterior wail where exposed above grade one-half inch deep, and point neatly with Portland cement mortar.

Drain Pipe And Cesspool

To be 5-inch best-glazed earthenware drain-pipe, furnished and laid from sewer in street to a point 5 feet outside cellar wall, joints filled with Portland cement Connection to be made by plumber.

Construct at a point about 40 feet from house two cesspools as shown - one 2 feet 8 inches in diameter and 8 feet deep, with 8-inch brick walls thoroughly cemented inside and made water-tight.

Also, 6 feet from same, a leaching cesspool 4 feet in diameter and 8 feet deep, made of loose stone, laid dry.

From iron pipe outside of building, connect house with cesspool by 4-inch Portland stoneware pipe. Also connect the two cesspools with Portland stoneware pipe as shown.

Cemented cesspool to have tight iron cover. Leaching cesspool to have a ventilated iron cover.

Four-inch glazed earthenware pipe to be furnished and laid from dry wells to one foot above ground, for conductor drains and set iron pipe furnished by plumber to receive conductors.

Cellar Floor (Concrete)

To be laid in. basement. Level off with coarse gravel; settle thoroughly; and put down 3 inches concrete, composed, to the thickness of 2 inches, of 1 part Portland cement, 2 parts sand, and 3 parts clean, coarse, sharp gravel, well tamped; cover with 1-inch coat composed of 1 part Portland cement and 2 parts sand, finished to true and even surface so that cellar will drain dry.

Brickwork

Brickwork - Except as otherwise specified, to be laid of hard-burned common brick, carefully selected for exposed work such as facing of chimneys above roof; all to be new, well shaped, and of uniform size. Brick to be laid wet in warm, dry weather, and dry in damp or freezing weather. All mortar to be Lime Rosendale. Joints to be thoroughly flushed with mortar and well pointed. All outside exposed work to be washed down after completion.

Chimneys

The chimneys are to be laid in Portland cement mortar. Build in lead counterflashing, at least 2 inches into the mortar joint, and turn down over the roof flashing.

Plaster the exterior of all chimneys where not exposed.

The chimney caps are to be of 2-inch blue stone, using only one piece to each chimney; the flue-holes cut through, to be one-half inch smaller each way than the flue below.

All flues are to be lined with hard-burned terra-cotta one inch thick, set with very close joints filled with Portland cement mortar.

Terra-cotta round thimbles are to be set for all smoke inlets; and in the ventilation flue, a square opening for registers is to be formed with square, smooth brick.

Chimney bars, to support flat arches, two 2-inch by 4-inch wrought iron, are to be placed above each fireplace, 8 inches longer than opening.

Provide and build into bottom of each chimney one 8-inch by 10-inch cast-iron door and frame.

Trimmer arches to be turned for hearths on center of fireplace, to be 2 feet wide and of length equal to hearths. Level up with cement to receive hearth.

Run 4-inch by 8-inch ash-flues from first-story fireplaces to ashpit.

Finished fireplaces to be formed as shown in detail drawings- face, back, and fire-bed of 1 1/2-inch Philadelphia brick, with hearths of red, unglazed kitchen tile, or same as face, to have two 2-inch by 1/2-inch bars, cast-iron throat, patent damper and slide, and ash-dump. After completion, each fireplace is to be kept protected. Samples of brick and tile are to be submitted for approval.

Plastering

- Lathing. Lath all walls, ceilings, and partitions (except behind sheathing in kitchen, but including all space behind all other sheathing and wainscots); also all furring, studding, soffits, and under-side of stairs throughout first, second, and third stories, laundry, head of stairs to basement, and cellar ceiling (but not where marked "unfinished" on the plans), with good spruce laths, set three-eighths inch apart and nailed with four mailings to a lath. Break joints every sixth course, and over all door and window openings. All laths to be put on horizontally. Metal lath over heater in basement.

Two-Coat Work

Plaster all above-mentioned lathing two coats.

The tough coat shall be best, thoroughly slaked, pure Eastern lime; clean sharp sand; and best, long cattle or goat's hair, mixed in the proportion of 2 1/2 bushels hair to 1 cask lime and 3 barrels sand, to be thoroughly worked and stacked outside of building at least ten days before using. Carry first coat to rough floor. All to be well troweled and straightened up with a straight edge.

The skim coat shall be sand finish, of white, well washed sand, 3 parts sand to 1 part white lime putty, floated up with cork floats, left medium rough; sample to be approved by Architect.

Whitewash

Whitewash all brick or stone work, etc., in basement, two coats, using good lime and plaster of Paris.

Metal corner beads (of approved make) to be furnished and set by plasterer throughout first floor, main house.

Cornices

Cornices to be run in rooms listed below, as per detail drawings.

Living room, Parlor,

Dining room, Hall.

Metal Work. - Flashings

Wherever roofs come in contact with vertical surfaces 5-lb. lead flashings, 9 inches by 9 inches, are to be built into each shingle joint and turned up onto the vertical surface at least five inches. Over these flashings, counter-flashings are to be placed, built into the brickwork as above specified; or, where the vertical surfaces are of shingle or siding, they are to extend under such surfaces at least 6 inches.

All valleys are to be lined with 5-lb. lead extending 6 inches under shingles at each side.

Eave-Trough And Conductors

The eave-troughs and conductors are to be of No. 26 galvanized iron, the conductors to be crimped 3 by 4 inches and connected six feet above ground to the 4-inch soil pipe to drain.

Metal Work Flashings 0100306

"GREYROCKS," AT ROCKPORT, MASS.

Frank Chouteau Brown, Architect, Boston, Mass. For Street Front, See Page 272; for Plans, See Page 282; for Interior, See Vol. II, Page 186.

All work in connection with the eave-troughs and conductors is to be riveted when possible, and all joints soldered; and the expan-s*on and contraction from changes in temperature are to be guarded against by expansion joints or loose ends.