Plaster mouldings upon ceilings and walls are less frequently employed now than a few years ago, when, especially at the intersection of wall and ceiling, a heavy cornice of plaster was the common method of finish. Nowadays a cornice of wood is more commonly used.

Briefly described, the running of a moulded plaster cornice is as follows: Two parallel strips, or screeds, are run on the ceiling and the side wall, with their nearer edges evenly straightened. These edges are then fitted to the mould - a piece of metal cut out to a reversed section of the cornice outline. The mould is run along the strips fastened to the wall for guiding it, the lower edge being cut out and fitted to run upon them.

The plaster necessary to fill up the mouldings of the cornice may be tied back to the wall and ceiling by rows of nails driven so as to stand at about the location of its greatest thickness; while a strip of metal lath, filling in the angle upon projecting furrings, will offer the best possible clinch, and will help to reduce the thickness of the plaster and render its drying and shrinkage more equable and its surface less likely to crack.

When all is ready, enough putty and plaster are gauged in about equal parts to run the cornice down the length of one side of the room. The moulding form is then rested upon the supporting and guiding strip against the wall, and drawn along from right to left, pressed against the mass of mortar which is thrown into the angle just ahead of it by the trowel, the space immediately in front of the moulded strip being kept sufficiently full of plaster mortar to fill out the moulding entirely at all times. When the length is completed, or the gauged material is used up, the mould is moved back and forth along the length of cornice that has just been run, scraping away all the plaster except that included within the outline of the mould.

Where hollows occur, the gauged material scraped off by the mould should at once be thrown on again at these places, so that they may be immediately filled and brought up to the right section outline by again running the mould over these portions. The gauged putty will set in a few moments, and each side of the room or section of the moulding must be run and completed or filled out very rapidly. The corners at the angles of the room may be filled in by hand, or a section of the mould may be separately run upon the floor, sawn in a mitre box, mitred and fitted in place upon the wall, the joint between the cast and run moulding being then carefully patched and evened off.

The extra amount of plaster included in the thickness of extreme projecting mouldings is the cause of occasional surface cracking; while other cracks are occasioned by the settlement, shrinkage, and movement of the house frame. For these and other reasons, it is now generally considered that a wooden cornice, despite its defects of shrinkage, is better suited than plaster to this purpose.

Finally, the moulding may be sprinkled with the brush and the mould may be run over it several times more, ending by finishing with a brush so as to give the moulding a gloss just as on the wall plastering. The same process is repeated for different kinds of plaster moulding, merely varying the method to provide for the different conditions set by circumstances, a circular moulding around the lighting outlet in the middle of the room, for instance, being swung from a peg driven into the center of the gas pipe or outlet box. Other kinds of plaster mouldings are run by unimportant variations of the processes described.

Cast ornaments are made separately in moulds, into which the plaster is poured. Most of these separate moulds are made of plaster hardened with glue or shellac, or surfaced with beeswax, and are generally oiled before being used. Plaster ornaments are fastened in place with fresh plaster or glue; occasionally a few screws are used, in which case the heads should be countersunk and covered in with plaster so as not to show.