Another form of metal roofing is that known as standing seam, which is used on steep roofs not less than 1/5 pitch, or 1/5 the width of the building. It consists of metal sheets whose cross or horizontal seams are locked as in flat seam roofing, and whose vertical seams are standing locked seams, as will be described in connection with Figs. 220 to 229 inclusive. Assume that 14 x 20-ineh sheets are used and the sheets are edged on the 20-inch sides only, as shown by A in Fig. 220, making the sheet 13 x 20 inches. After the required number of sheets have been edged, and assuming that the length of the pitched roof is 30 feet, then as many sheets are locked together as will be required, and the seams are closed with the mallet and soldered. In practice these strips are prepared of the required length in the shop, painted on the underside, and when dry are rolled up and sent to the building. If desired they can be laid out at the building, which avoids the buckling caused by rolling and transportation from the shop to the job.

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Fig. 219.

After the necessary strips have been prepared they are bent up with the roofing tongs, or, what is better and quicker, the roofing edger for standing-seam roofing. This is a machine into which the strips of tin are fed, being discharged in the required bent form shown at A or B in Fig. 221, bent up 1 inch on one side and 1 1/4 inches on the other side. Or the machine will, if desired, bend up 1 1/4 inches and 1 1/2 inches, giving a 3/4-inch finished doubled seam in the first case and a 1-inch seam in the second. When laying standing-seam roofing, in no case should any nails be driven into the sheets. This applies to tin, copper or galvanized iron sheets. A cleat should be used, as shown in Fig. 222, which also shows the full size for laying the sheets given in Fig. 221. Thus it will be seen in Fig. 222 that 3/4 inch has been added over the measurements in Fig. 221, thus allowing edges.

These cleats shown in Fig. 222 are made from scrap metal; they allow for the expansion and contraction of the roofing and are used in practice as shown in Fig. 223, which represents the first operation in laying a standing-seam roof, and in which A represents the gutter with a lock attached at B. The gutter being fastened in position by means of cleats under the lock B - the same as in flat seam roofing - the standing seam strips are laid as follows: Take the strip C and lock it well into the lock B of the gutter A as shown, and place the cleat shown in Fig.

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Fig. 220.

Standing Seam Roofing 0900243

Fig. 221.

Standing Seam Roofing 0900244

Fig. 222.

222 tightly against the upright bend of the strip C in Fig. 223 as shown at D, and fasten it to the roof by means of a 1-inch roofing nail a.

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Fig. 223.

Press the strip C firmly onto the roof and turn over edge b of the cleat D. This holds the sheet C in position. Now take the next sheet E, press it down and against the cleat D and turn over the edge d, which holds E in position. These cleats should be placed about 18 inches apart and by using them it will be seen that no nails have been driven through the sheets, the entire roof being held in position by means of the cleats only.

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Fig. 224.

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Fig. 225.

The second operation is shown in Fig. 224. By means of the hand double seamer and mallet or with the roofing double seamers and squeezing tongs, the single seam is made as shown at a. The third and last operation is shown in Fig. 225 where by the use of the same tools the doubled seam a is obtained. in Fig. 226 is shown how the finish is made with a comb ridge at the top. The sheets A A A have on the one side the single edge as shown, while the opposite side B has a double edge turned over as shown at a. Then, standing seams b b b are soldered down to e.

In Fig. 227 is shown how the side of a wall is flashed and counter flashed. A shows the gutter, B the leader or rain water conductor, and C the lock on the gutter A, fastened to the roof boards by cleats as shown at D. The back of the gutter is flashed up against the wall as high as shown by the dotted line E. F represents a standing-seam strip locked into the gutter at H and flashed up against the wall as high as shown by the dotted line J J. As the flashing J J E is not fastened at any part to the wall the beams or wall can settle without disturbing the flashing. The counter or cap flashing K K K is now stepped as shown by the heavy lines, the joints of the brick work being cut out to allow a one-inch flange d d d etc. to enter. This is well fastened with flashing hooks, as indicated by the small dots, and then made water-tight with roofer's cement. As will be seen the cap flashing overlaps the base flashing a distance indicated by J J and covers to L L; the corner is double seamed at a b. M shows a sectional view through the gutter showing how the tubes and leaders are joined. The tube N is flanged out as shown at i i, and soldered to the gutter; the leader O is then slipped over the tube N as shown, and fastened.

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Fig. 226.

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Fig. 227.

In the section on Flat-Seam Roofing it was explained how a conical tower, Fig. 214, would be covered. It will be shown now how this tower would be covered with standing seam roofing. As the circumference of the tower at the base is 396 inches, and assuming that 14 x 20-inch tin plate is to be used at the base of the tower, the nearest width which can be employed and which will divide the base into equal spaces is 17 5/23 inches, without edges, thus dividing the circumference into 23 equal parts. Then the width of 17 5/23 inches and the length of the rater A B or A C in elevation will be the basis from which to construct the pattern for the standing seam strip, for which proceed as follows:

Let A B C D in Fig. 228 represent a 20-inch wide strip locked and soldered to the required length. Through the center of the strip draw the line E F. Now measure the length of the rafter A B or A C in Fig.

214 and place it on the line E F in Fig. 228 as shown from H to F. At right angles to H F on either side draw F O and F L making each equal to 8 14/23 inches, being one half of the 17 5/23 above referred to.

Standing Seam Roofing 0900250

Fig. 228.

From points L and O draw lines to the apex H (shown broken). At right angles to H L and H O draw lines H P equal to 1 1/4 inches and H S equal to 1 1/2 inches respectively. In similar manner draw L D and O C and connect by lines the points P D and S C. Then will P S C D be the pattern for the standing seam strip, of which 22 more will be required. When the strips are all cut out, use the roofing tongs and bend up the sides, after which they are laid on the tower, fastened with cleats, and double seamed with the hand seamer and mallet in the usual manner.

If the tower was done in copper or galvanized sheet iron or steel, where 8-foot sheets could be used, as many sheets would be cross-locked together as required; then metal could be saved, and waste avoided, by cutting the sheets as shown in Fig. 229 in which A B C D shows the sheets of metal locked together, and E and F the pattern sheets, the only waste being that shown by the shaded portion. Where the finial D in Fig. 214 sets over the tower, the standing seams are turned over flat as much as is required to receive the finial, or small notches would be cut into the base of the finial, to allow it to slip over the standing seams. Before closing the seams, they are painted with white lead with a tool brush, then closed up tight, which makes a good tight job.