This section is from the book "The Principles And Practice Of Modern House-Construction", by G. Lister Sutcliffe. Also available from Amazon: How Your House Works: A Visual Guide to Understanding & Maintaining Your Home.
Excavation. - Take up the seta, Hags, etc as required for the new drains, slop-water closet, disconnecting chamber, etc,, and dig for and take up all existing drains. Excavate for the new drains, closet, disconnecting chamber, &c; remove all contaminated and superfluous rubbish; fill up as required, well ramming the filling in layers, and provide clean hard rubbish as directed.
Drains. - Form the drains shown by blue lines on the plan with 5-inch cast-iron pipes, the metal having an uniform thickness of 3/8-inch, and provide bend and curved junctions where shown; the pipes must be coated with Angus Smith's solution, and must be laid in perfectly straight lines to a gradient of 1 in 36, the joints to be caulked with tarred gasket and lead.
Form the drain from the disconnecting chamber to the sewer with the best 6-inch glazed-stoneware socketed pipes, carefully jointed with cement mortar, composed of one part Earle's Portland cement and one part clean sand.
Cut through the brickwork of the sewer, insert a junction-block, and make good the brickwork, to the satisfaction of the Borough Engineer, and connect the drain and junction-block with cement mortar, as above.
Form the remaining drains with the best 4-inch stoneware pipes as above, with all necessary bends and junctions.
Provide and set in cement mortar four salt-glazed dishes with iron grates and 4-inch glazed-stoneware P-traps under.
Provide and set one similar dish and grate at J for air-inlet, but without trap.
Disconnecting Chamber. - Construct the disconnecting chamber 3 feet 6 inches long and 2 feet wide inside, with concrete bottom of an average thickness of 15 inches (the concrete to be composed of one part of approved Portland cement, two parts of clean sand, and four parts of clean broken stone passed through a screen with 1 1/2-inch meshes); provide and set in the concrete 5-inch glazed-stoneware channels, and one Oates and Green's No. 36 channel syphon and stopper, and bed the stopper in tallow; the concrete at the sides of the channel must be finished with rapid slopes into the channel and floated with a 1/2-inch coat of cement mortar (1 to 1); build the walls with 9-inch brickwork in cement mortar as above, and faced with the best salt-glazed bricks from Oates and Green or the Leeds Fire-clay Co.; cover part of the chamber with a self-faced stone landing 5 inches thick from Lightscliffe, and provide and set over the remainder an Adams's air-tight manhole-cover 24 inches square.
Fig. 701 -V law of Oates and Green's No. 36 Channel Syphon.
Inspection-shaft. - Form the inspection-shaft at G with a concrete bottom surrounding the vertical branch of the iron drain, and 4 1/2-inch brickwork in cement mortar, the shaft to be 18 inches square, and provide and set over the shaft an air-tight cast-iron cover, as above but 18 inches square.
Flushing Tumbler. - Provide and fix at the head of the drain at a a Duckett's glazed-earthenware tumbler and container, the tumbler to hold five gallons, with tooled sunk dish-stone over and iron grate, to receive the waste from the kitchen sink, and connect the outgo of the container with the iron drain by means of cement mortar, as above.
Slop-water closet. - Provide and fix a Duckett'a automatic slop-water closet, arrangement B, with 4-inch p-trap, tipper and container, 15-inch by 11-inch shaft, fluted pedestal, and hinged pine seat, list price úl 18s. [as shown in figs. 702, 703, and 704], and carefully make all joints with cement mortar; form a solid bed of concrete (1 + 2 + 4 as before) from 6 inches below the bottom of the trap to the top of the container; above this build half-brick walls around the container up to the floor, and cover with 2 1/2-inch tooled flag having wrought-iron ring let into it and run with lead.
Build the walls of the closet with 4 1/2-inch pressed bricks in cement mortar (1 to 3), pointed on both sides, and cover the closet with 2 1/2-inch self-faced flag cover with tooled edges, bedded in cement mortar and neatly pointed.
Provide and build into the wall behind the closet two 9-inch by 6-inch salt-glazed earthenware air-grates, one at the floor-level and the other immediately below the ceiling.
Fig. 702 -Plan of Duckett's Slop water Closet.
Fig. 703. - Section of Duckett's Slop water Closet.
Form a window in the opposite wall 2 feet 6 inches by 1 foot 6 inches, with 6-inch by 3-inch tooled-flag sill and 4 1/2-inch by 3-inch tooled-flag head, and provide and fix a 2 1/4-inch window made to open on pivots in 4 1/2-inch by 1 1/2-inch frame and fitted with a wrought-iron rack fastener.
The door to the closet must be a battened door, formed with l 1/4-inch by 4 1/2-inch battens and 1-inch beaded boards, and hung with 15-inch T-hinges to
4 1/2-inch by 1 1/2-inch rebated frame; provide and fix one black Norfolk thumb latch and one 1/2-inch tower bolt.
Cover the walls and ceiling of closet with two coats of lime-whitewash.
External Urinal. - The foundations of the urinal walls must be of cement concrete as before, 2 feet wide and 9 inches thick. Build the walls with 9-inch pressed bricks, and finish with 11-inch by 3-inch self-faced coping with tooled edges, all in cement mortar, and pointed where exposed to view.
Provide and set in cement mortar two semi-circular salt-glazed urinals, and finish the tops with cement mortar neatly formed to slope.
Form channel in concrete floor, and set in it a curved iron grate 9 inches by 9 inches in frame with salt-glazed P-trap under, and connect this with the iron branch-drain by means of neat cement.