To Print On Linen. Make a salting solution of two grains of chloride of ammonium to every ounce of water. Make a sizing solution of
Soak the glue in hot water until it is dissolved, and then apply the solution to the part to be printed upon. "When dry, apply the silver solution with a tuft of cotton, shielding the unsized portions of the linen. Fume when dry, and print in the usual way, or in the handkerchief printing-frame. Tone in your usual toning solutition, fix, and wash well, using hot water for the final washing. - George W. Wallace.
Printing on Silk. - Pour 20 ounces of boiling water on 100 grains of chloride of ammonium and 60 grains of Iceland moss. When nearly cold, filter, and immerse the silk in it for fifteen minutes. To sensitize, immerse the silk in a twenty-grain solution of nitrate of silver for sixteen minutes. Let the nitrate bath be rather acid. When dry, prepare for printing by attaching the silk to a piece of card-board a little smaller than itself, by turning the edges over and fastening with small bits of gummed paper; slightly over-print. Wash in two or three changes of water, and tone in a gold bath, thus:
Acetate of Soda,.......................
Chloride of Gold,.......................
a few grains.
Filter, and keep for twenty-four hours before using. Let the prints be toned slightly bluer than required to be when finished. Rinse them in water, and fix in a solution of hypo, four ounces to the pint of water. Twenty minutes is ample time for fixing. Wash well. - T. C. Phillips.
Photographing on Wood. - 1 use, first, salt albumen: beat the white of one egg with an equal amount of water, making about two ounces; add ten grains of chloride of ammonium, and filter; moisten the block with water; whiten it with Chinese white, rubbed up with water, or the enamel from a card will do; brush it smoothly as it dries; when dry flow on the wood-block printing, the sensitizing solution is prepared in the following proportions:
274. A once.popular style of portraits was printed on porcelain glass. They have fallen into disuse somewhat, because of their readi-ness to fade, though they should not do so if property washed. The notes are referred to for the means of producing them. Photographs printed salted albumen; spread it over the block with a piece of glass, drain, and dry; make a little wall around the block with a roll of wax. Now pour on the silver solution, and spread with a glass (silver, the same as for paper), drain, dry, and fume it; after which it will be ready for printing. Print the same as a porcelain; tone with weak gold; fix with hypo. I use a home-made printing-frame; I find it very handy for printing porcelains and many other things. I take an ordinary 8x10 printing-frame, and fasten a glass at the bottom. I fasten the glass in the printing-frame with two little wedges of wood at the end of the glass. They bold it very firm, and are easily taken out when you wish to use the frame for other kinds of printing. On the top I fix a triangular-shaped piece of wood with hinges, making the point come at the middle of the frame, screwing a strip of brass across the joint for a spring. I fasten the block underneath with wax, so it can bo taken off. When you wish to print a block of wood, stick the negative on the plain glass with wax at the corners. For printing on wood it is often necessary to use a reversed negative, which I get by first making a ferrotype, and whiten it with mercury, then make a negative from it. - Charles Homan.
Gun - Cotton,.......................
When dissolved, take thirty grains of nitrate of silver and dissolve in as small a quantity of water as possible, then mix with the collodion just prepared. Allow it to stand in the dark for two or three days, and it is ready for use. It is better, always, to keep it in a dark place. The sensitive collodion being now prepared, pour it over the block the same as when coating a glass plate. After draining, dry gently before a fire, taking care not to use too much heat, as it is apt to destroy the texture of the wood and make it brittle. It is now ready to be printed on in the usual way. The print is produced rather quicker than an ordinary paper one, and can be examined with very little more trouble. If not dark enough when looked at, it can be exposed again, as by a little care in setting the block to the lines already marked on the negative there need be no fear of doubling the impression. Print very little darker than what is required, then dissolve off the film with ether and alcohol mixed in equal proportions. Gentle rubbing with a sponge assists greatly in removing the film, and be particular that all is removed, as if any be left it interferes considerably with the engraving After this is done, fix with hyposulphite of soda for a few minutes, allowing only the surface of the block to touch the solution; then wash with a gentle stream of water, taking care to keep the back as dry as possible, as the wood is very apt to be destroyed if allowed to get soaked with water. Set aside to dry, and it is ready for the engraver to manipulate on.
upon porcelain glass, with a ground surface and finely colored, are very beautiful; though they, too, have been largely superseded by the fine results now obtainable without any help from color.
A few words now in regard to the taking of the negative. The process, of course, is the same as usual; the only difference is that the image must he the reverse way from ordinary work, which can easily he accomplished by exposing the hack of the plate to the light and taking the image through the glass. "When the plate is taken from the hath, drain thoroughly, and wipe the back perfectly dry with a piece of blotting-paper, being careful to leave no streaks, as they would be sure to show on the negative. Then put it into the dark-slide with the sensitive side towards the spring. At the top and bottom of the plate, on the film side, put a strip of two- or three-ply of blotting-paper, and then put a glass plate on the top of that; by this means you will prevent the spring of the slide from coming in contact with, and damaging, the film. After focussing, you must measure the thickness of the glass on which you intend taking the negative, and move back the lens as much, otherwise your image will not be in focus. By this means you will find no difficulty in getting reversed negatives. - Alexander Nicol.