Fig.66.

Lesson M Printing On Albumen Paper 88

Both in printing and toning stereoscopic pictures see that both ends are of the same depth and color. It looks exceedingly bad to see one end lighter than the other, or one end a deeper tone than the other. If the ends of the negative vary in strength - and this is often the case - then a thickness or two of tissue-paper will be found enough to correct the evil. It hardly pays to print clouds in pictures so small as the stereoscopic size, and yet they add much to the charm of the prints if they can be introduced. If they are, they should be natural and not artificial. The nicest attention to details is required in stereoscopic work.

stand and placing it as I have directed, that is, with the perpendicular pencilled line of the ground-glass showing through exactly the same points of the subject, paste another strip of paper along edge 1. You now have the negative with a line at the bottom across its entire length, and with a guide at each side. Prints made from it so prepared will plainly show a black base-line and white uprights at each end of the strip. - John L. Gihon.

I send you a little dodge in the printing line, which I find useful in making prints from stereoscopic negatives, and by which cutting and transposing either the prints or the negatives are saved. In the first place, I have a bottom line on my negative, which can be made by pasting a narrow strip of paper, or drawing a clear line with a sharp knife on the base of the negative, and which serves as a guide for cutting away the edge of the print. Next cut your paper in strips, suiting the width of your negative, and just twice its length. Have a piece of smooth, thin, opaque paper just the exact length of the negative, draw a vertical line on this in the centre; lay your paper, albumenized side out, on this mask, making the ends to meet at the line; now print first on one side and then on the other, taking care to have the base-lines correspond; and when the print is made, cut the paper in the centre, and it is already matched, transposed, and ready to have the corners trimmed either round or square, and mounted. - E. P. Libbt.

My method of printing clouds is as follows: After I have placed the sensitized paper in contact with the negative, I take some red and black ink, and mix to a fairly non-actinic color, thickening with a little gum to the consistency of cream, and then smear with a thin piece of stick (say the point of a penholder), lightly, in front of the plate with varying, irregular lines between, say, a high hill and a castle or church; in fact, anywhere where the print would look all one mass of light. After this application I very lightly brush these smears with a very fine, broad camel's-hair brush (such as grainers use) various ways, but more especially obliquely in both directions, and the clouds appear in the one printing equal or even superior to prints which require two separate printings, besides saving considerable time and trouble; and this alone, to amateurs, I presume, must be a matter of importance. Of course the lines must not be parallel or straight, but should take the irregular form of clouds, and then be shaded nicely off with the brush. Practice makes perfect, and a very little practice in this case is all that is required. - J. H. Storr.