This section is from the book "Complete Self-Instructing Library Of Practical Photography", by J. B. Schriever. Also available from Amazon: Complete Self-Instructing Library Of Practical Photography.
Stretchers For Drying Paper. The simplest form of stretchers can be made as follows: Provide yourself with strips of soft wood 1/2 x 3/4 inches, and 20 inches long. One inch from each end of the stick attach a wooden photo clip. In the center of the strip place a No. 3 screw-eye. When the paper is ready to dry, attach a pair of clips to the top and bottom of the sheet. This holds the paper from curling. Hang the paper, which is now attached to the clips, on the hook provided in the drying box.
Fuming The Paper. After the paper is thoroughly dried, it is fumed with the fumes of ammonia. The fuming assists in giving brilliancy and richer results. It also tends to prevent early discoloration. The paper may be fumed in the regular drying box, unless a large amount of paper is required, when two boxes will need to be used, one for drying and the other for fuming, but ordinarily the one box will answer both purposes. When using the box for fuming, provide a false bottom of zinc, or even cardboard will answer. Punch this bottom full of holes, say 1/4 inch in size. The holes may be made by driving an ordinary nail into the zinc or cardboard. Distribute over the bottom of the box six or eight wooden blocks about 3 inches high. Lay the false bottom on these blocks. Into two saucers pour an ounce of strong ammonia. Place one saucer near each end underneath the perforated bottom, and close the door. The perforated bottom will cause the ammonia fumes to be evenly distributed throughout the box. The fuming should continue for 30 minutes, when the ammonia should be withdrawn and discarded, and the paper taken from the box and cut up into the size sheets required.
Printing. After the paper has been dried, fumed and cut up into suitable sizes it is ready for printing, and you should proceed in exactly the same manner as you would with any other printing-out paper. The speed of printing is about the same as the modern printing-out paper and the prints must be protected from strong light during the different manipulations.
Washing. Prints are washed in exactly the same manner as other printing-out papers. The washing must be thorough. When the albumen prints are first placed in the wash water some of them take on a rather pretty red color, others appear purple, and still others are a brick red or yellow. Therefore, for even toning it is very necessary that they be made all one color before toning. It is advisable to add a handful of salt to the third wash water, and to handle the prints over rapidly, separating them, by hand, so that they all receive full benefit of the salt bath. After the salt bath, wash in three changes of plain water when they are ready for toning.
Toning. While the toning of albumen paper is practically the same as the toning of modern gelatin chloride printing-out papers, and the same toning bath may be employed, yet the following formulae will give very good results.