571. In order to produce uniform results from a variety of negatives, you should have three developing trays, each containing different developers, as follows:

572. In one tray prepare a normal temperature bath, in another a warmer bath; the former should not exceed 65 to 70° Fahr., with the latter from 80 to 90° Fahr.

573. Bichromate Bath

Bichromate Bath. The third should be a normal temperature bath, with not more than one dram of bichromate potash added to 40 ounces of developer. It is not necessary that this last bath be as large in bulk as the former. It is, however, advisable in the two former baths to use large bulks of solution, as more even results will be obtained.

574. Method Of Developing

Method Of Developing. All prints should be sorted before developing. Those printed from flat negatives should be separated from the contrasty ones; such prints which appear flat should be first dipped into the normal temperature or cold bath, and then immediately placed into the bichromate bath. If the prints are extremely flat place them directly into the bichromate bath. Too much bichromate will bleach the whites, the proper amount will restrain them.

575. Should you place a print which you judged to be very flat directly into the bichromate bath and find that it was bleaching, you can save the print by immediately transferring it to the warm bath. This is not recommended, however, for while a small amount of bichromate carried into either of the first two baths would do no harm, yet if many prints are developed in this way you are quite apt to charge these baths with bichromate, thus in time causing normal prints which are developed completely in these baths to bleach, when it is not intended to clip the whites a particle. Therefore, exercise care in your judgment, and the safest plan would be, when in doubt as to whether print is exceedingly flat or not, to first place in in the normal temperature bath and then transfer immediately to the bichromate and complete the development in this bath. The flatter the print, the sooner you get it into the bichromate the better.

576. Dodging In The Bichromate Bath

Dodging In The Bichromate Bath. When printing from negatives which are quite soft and flat, for example, portraits where the hands or face are quite black and dark, these portions can be held back by first immersing in a cold bath, then immediately placing those portions which you wish to restrain in the bichromate bath, constantly shaking the print, so as to leave no decided line. When the print is restrained to the proper strength, immerse the entire print in the bichromate bath until completely developed. Very frequently one can save prints in this way which would be total failures if developed in straight developer.

577. Life Of Bichromate Bath

Life Of Bichromate Bath. The bichromate bath will exhaust itself in a few weeks' time. It is always advisable to develop the prints which require the least restraining first. For prints requiring considerable clipping or restraining, if your bath is not strong enough in bichromate, add one-half dram of fresh bichromate. The bulk of the bath can be kept up by adding equal amounts of fresh water and bichromate thereto. It can be used continually by strengthening as instructed.