This section is from the book "Complete Self-Instructing Library Of Practical Photography", by J. B. Schriever. Also available from Amazon: Complete Self-Instructing Library Of Practical Photography.
Washing. Cyko prints are washed in the usual way. It is essential that the finished prints be washed thoroughly to free them from hypo. To wash a batch of one hundred 4x5 prints, using two trays of suitable size and transferring each print separately from one tray to the other, changing the water at least twelve times, will require at least a full hour for the process. If running water is used, where the prints can be kept constantly moving so that each individual print has a thorough washing, from one-half to one hour, according to the number of prints, will be required. Prints are not washed if they are piled in a bunch in a tray and the water simply runs in at one end and out at the other. In some localities where there is an excessive amount of iron or impurities in the water, the whites in the prints may have a yellowish tone. The prints should not be allowed to wash longer than an hour, and should never soak in water over night, as this tends to soften the gelatin film and entirely spoils the print.
Blisters. In order to avoid blisters the temperature of the wash water should be kept as uniform as possible. If the water is ice cold it will cause blisters. If running water is used for washing, the stream from the tap should not be allowed to fall directly upon the print, as this also will cause blisters. A good way to avoid this is to place a tumbler or small graduate in the tray used for washing, allowing the water to flow into this first and then over the side into the tray.
Drying. After washing the prints as directed, remove them from the wash water and lay them face up on clean lintless blotters, care being taken to blot off the superfluous moisture. Another way, which is to be preferred when a large number of prints are to be dried, is to place them on a clean glass in a pile, face down. Cover them with a blotter, and with a squeegee roller press out all superfluous water. Then lay them out separately, face down, on cheese-cloth stretchers, which may be constructed by making a frame-work of light wood and tacking bleached cheese-cloth tightly over it. Prints dried in this manner will curl but slightly.
Practice Work. Cyko paper is manipulated almost identically the same as Velox. There is some difference in the exposure required, but the principal difficulty lies in the manipulation in the developer.
937. With Velox paper when softness is desired full strength developer is used. Such is not the case with Cyko, as with this product, when softness is wanted increase the exposure and dilute the developer with water. Bear this in mind when manipulating this paper.
938. The fact that Cyko is manipulated just the opposite to the Velox in the developer, makes the manipulation more interesting after having worked Velox paper. It gives an opportunity to work with more thought and care and less mechanically. It trains you to work any gaslight paper, it teaches you to exercise care, and it also enables you to thoroughly study and learn to understand the nature of each standard photographic product.
939. Make test prints in the usual manner. The first experiments may not be as successful as desired, but this will prove of benefit as you will then learn to manipulate the bath to give the results wanted. If you happen to fail with the first efforts, consult the difficulty department where the remedy will be found. Save test print failures as well as the successful ones and note the method of procedure on the back of all prints, filing them in the proof file for future reference.