Staple Materials

This table lists materials which are used in the construction of under- and outer-garments, classified as to, fiber, weave, price, width, and description. Standard materials in general use are shown in Figs. 10,11, 12, 13, 14, and 15.

Name

Fiber

Weave

Width

Price

V

Appearance and Use

Albatross............

Wool

Silk

Plain

Armure

Inches

38-40

36-40

\ $ .75-$1.00 $1.50

A soft crepe like wool; suitable for light weight school or simple afternoon dresses.

Soft, semi-lustrous, heavy silk; beautiful

Armure..............

weave. Dresses.

Basket Cloth........

Wool

Basket

45-50

$1.00-$2.50

Soft wool, loose woven cloth. Used for dresses and skirts.

Batiste..............

Cotton Wool

Plain Plain

32-45 45

$ ,35-$1.00 $1.00-$2.00

Fine sheer material, used for lingerie waists

and summer dresses. Also light weight wool dresses.

Bengaline...........

Wool

Silk

Plain

Cord

48-54

$1.50

Corded wool, cord running lengthwise of cloth; used for dresses. Heavy corded silk. Afternoon coats, etc.

Hair or wool

Cotton or silk warp hair filling

Linen

22-36

45-54

$2.00

Woven into cloth to produce a curled surface. Glossy, hard surface. Used for suits, skirts, and petticoats.

Boucle.............

Brilliantine.........

$1.00-$2.00

Broadcloth..........

Wool

Plain or twill

50-60

$?,.00-$5.00

Smooth-faced cloth, high gloss. Suits, coats, dresses.

Brocade.............

Cotton

Linen

Silk

Satin

Wool

Figure

27

36

27-40

27-40

45

$ .50 $1.00 $2.00-$5.00 . $2.00-$5.00 $1.50-$4.00

Pattern in self or contrasting color raised on the cloth.

Calico...............

Cotton

Plain

25

$ .07

Inexpensive printed cloth; used for aprons, suit covers, etc.

Cambric............

Cotton

Plain

25-36

$ .06-$ .30

Fine cotton fabric used for undergarments.

Coarser weaves used for patterns.

Cashmere...........

Wool

Twill

42-45

$ .75-81.50

Soft, fine twilled woolen material. Dresses.

Usually in plain colors.

Challis..............

Wool or cotton and wool

Plain

32

$ .65-$1.00

1

Fine wool material, suitable for afternoon

dresses. Plain colors or figured.

Chambray...........

Cotton

Plain

32

$.12^-$.25 $ .08-$ .12

Light weight cotton cloth; always woven

with one color in warp, and white filling; white selvedge. School or house dresses. Loosely woven fabric of medium fine thread,

Cheese Cloth........

Cheviot.............

Cotton

Wool or worsted

Silk

Plain

Plain or twill Plain

36

50-54 45

$l,00-$3.00 $ .75-$1.00

used for dust cloths, patterns and covers. Coarse, heavy woolen cloth; suitable for

Chiffon..............

suits, storm- or top-coats. Thin, gauzy fabric for waists, sleeves, collars,

etc.

Chiffon Cloth........

Silk

Plain

45

$1.00-$1.50

Soft thin gauzy fabric, heavier in weight and more durable than ■ the chiffon.

Waists, etc.

China silk...........

Silk Cotton

Plain Plain

32-36 36

$ .75-$1.25 $ .25-$ .50

Thin glossy silk, used for linings.

Chintz..............

Fine medium heavy cotton stuff; usually

figured; used for dresses, etc.

Cordurov............

Cotton

Silk and cotton

Wool

Linen

Wool

Cotton Silk

Pile

Plain Twill Plain

Twill

Plain

27

36

50-54

30-45

50-56

32-36

$1.00-$2.00 $1.00-$1.50 $2.00-$4.00 $1.00-$1.50 $2.00-$3.00 $ .18-$1.00 $1.50-$4.00

Corded cotton fabric. Used for school suits,

Corsica..............

dresses, etc. Lining silk of fine grade.

Covert..............

Fine twilled material; wears like iron.

Crash...............

Coarse, heavy linen, good for skirts, suits,

Cravennette.........

etc. Light weight wool material; good school

Crepe...............

suits; can be rain-proofed. Crinkled surface. Used for undergarments,

waists, dresses.

Wool Silk

Plain

38-40 40-45

$1.00-$1.50-$4.00

Semi-luster; crepe surface. Dresses, blouses, and in light weight undergarments.

Silk

Plain

40

$1.50-$2.00

Blouses, sleeves, dresses, etc.

Luster; smooth surface. Dresses, evening

Crepe Meteor........

Silk

40-45

$1.50-$4.00

gowns.

Diagonal............

Wool

Twill

45-56

$1.50

Cloth of heavy or medium heavy weight;

suits, coats.

Dimity..............

Cotton

32

$ .25-$ .35

Striped or cross-barred, plain or figured.

Dresses, kimonos, waists.

Staple Materials - Continued

Name

Fiber

Weave

Width

Price

Appearance and Use

Drill................

Cotton

Twill

Inches

36

f .15-$ .20

Twilled cotton cloth; middy blouses, school and play dresses, rompers.

Duck................

Cotton

Raw silk warp, cotton

Plain

36

27-50

$12^-$. 20 $1.00

Like sail-cloth; heavy; for skirts, sport suits, middy blouses, etc. Lustrous surface, soft, but not clinging.

Eolienne.............

or worsted filling

Linen or linen and

Plain

$1.00-$2.00

Dresses, suits. Rough surface, looks like wool. Dresses

Eponge..............

cotton

45

and suits; a 20 per cent, cotton mixture; is not crushable.

Faille.,.............

Silk

Cord

36

$1.50

Surface in light ridges; dresses, afternoon coats, trimmings.

Flannel..............

Wool or cotton and wool Cotton

Plain or twill Plain

27-36

$ .55-S1.00 $ .08-$ .15

Weave like coarse cotton; soft and warm;

Flannelette..........

petticoats, house jackets, dresses, shirts.

Silk

Twill

27 27-40

$ .75-$1.50

Foulard.............

Usually figured (flowers or conventional design). Summer dresses; good for utility; sheds dust.

Gabardine..........

Wool

Twill

50-54

$1.50-$3.75

Somewhat like whipcord, but soft. Suits, dresses; does not shine as quickly as serge; wears well.

Galatea..............

Cotton

Twill

32

$ .15-$ .20

Twilled cotton, somewhat like drill. Does

not keep white as well. Middy blouses, school dresses.

Gauze...............

Silk

Cotton

Gauze, leno Plain

45 32

$4.00-$5.00 $ .25-$1.00

Open mesh. Dresses, curtains.

Plain weave; pattern produced by yarn

Gingham............

dyed thread; also plain colors-dresses, rompers, etc.

Grenadine.........

Silk

Gauze

44

$1.50-$3.00

Open weave, sometimes figured. Dresses (requires silk slip); good wearing qualities.

Grosgrain............

Silk

Plain

22

$1.50

Heavy, lustrous; shows rib or slight cord on surface. Dresses, wraps.

Habutai.............

Silk

Wool

Wool

Plain Twill -Plain

32-36 38-45 50-54

$2.00-$3.00 $1.00-82.00 $1.50-$2.50

Lustrous; close weave. Shirts.

Henrietta............

Luster; soft to touch. Dresses.

Homespun...........

Coarse; heavy. Suits, separate skirts; good for hard service.

Hopsacking..........

Wool

Plain

50-54

$1.75-$2.00

Coarse, rough surface like bagging; suits, skirts.

Indian Head.........

Cotton

Plain

36-45

$ .15-$ .25

Coarse, heavy muslin. Skirts, dresses, rompers, middy blouses. Easily laundered and lasting wear.

India Silk...........

Silk

Plain

32-36

$ .75-$1.50

Plain, lustrous, thin. Used for summer

utility dresses and waists.

Khaki...............

Cotton

Twill

36

$ .25

Dust colored, heavy cloth. Sport and outing suits, middy blouses, school dresses, knickers, etc. Genuine khaki launders well, wears indefinitely.

Linen: handkerchief, dress, butcher's

Linen

Plain

36-90

$ .25-$2.00

Lustrous; heavy, fine. Dresses, suits, rompers, blouses, interlinings.

Lawn...............

Cotton or linen

Plain

27-36

$ .10-$ .50

Sheer, stiff (with dressing). Plain and

figured. Dresses, slips, aprons.

Longcloth...........

Cotton

Cotton

Plain

Plain

36 27-32

$ .15-$ .30 $ .25-81.00

Fine, soft to touch. Undergarments and infants' wear. Usually striped; colored and white. Shirts,

Madras.............

and satin

dresses.

MarQuissette.........

Silk or cotton

Leno or gauze

45

$ .75-$1.25

Open weave. Dresses, waists.

Melton .............

Wool

Plain and twill

50-54

$2.00-$4.00

Thick, heavy, rough to touch. Coats.

Messaline............

Silk

36

$1.00-$1.50

Luster, light weight. Slips, petticoats, finings.

Mohair

Silk Wrool

Cord

22-40 45

Moire...............

$1.50-$5.00 $2.00

Slight cord, watered surface. Dresses, coats,' wraps, waists.

Staple Materials - Continued

Name

Fiber

Weave

Width

Price

Appearance and Use

Muslin.............

Cotton

Plain or twilled

Inches

36

«8> .J.O-«ip .^o

White or colored, fine or coarse; skirts, dresses, middy blouses.

Nainsook............

Cotton

Plain

36-45

$ .20-$ .50

Fine, soft. Undergarments, infants' slips, and dresses.

Nun's veiling.........

Wool

Plain

36

$1.00-$2.00

Light weight, plain. Dresses, summer weight.

Organdie............

Cotton

Plain

36-72

$ .75-$1.25

Sheer, with stiffness, which keeps it firm.

Washable (some grades). Dresses, waists, collars and cuffs.

Panama.............

Wool Cotton

Plain Plain

42-54

$1.00-$1.75

Medium heavy. Separate skirts, dresses. Plain colors, stripes and figures. Skirts,

Percale..............

36

$.123^-$.25

dresses, waists.

Percaline............

Cotton

Plain

36

!|p .Zo~JJp .oo

Fine, soft, strong. Waist linings and foundation skirts.

Persian lawn.........

Cotton

Plain

32-36

$ .25-$ .50

Sheer and fine. Lingerie blouses, dresses, infants' dresses.

Pique...............

Cotton

Cord

27

$ .50-$ 1.00

Ribbed; white and colors. Separate skirts and dresses.

Pongee..............

Silk

Plain

27

$ .65-$1.50

Natural colors and dyed; more or less rough and harsh. Unlimited wear; spots with water but launders well. Waists, dresses, coats, petticoats.

Poplin...............

Cotton

Silk

Cord

27-32

45

$ .25 $2.00-$4.00

Ribbed; white and colors Dresses skirts

etc.

Prunella.............

Wool

Wool

Silk

Cotton

Satin Plain

Plain

45-50

48-52

36

36-45

$1.50-$3.00 $1.00-$2.00 $ .75-$1.50 $ .50-$1.50

Glossy surface, harsh. Skirts, dresses. Rougher than pongee; in colors. Dresses, coats. Rough weave; heavy and light weight.

Rajah...............

Ratine..............

Summer dresses and skirts.

Sateen..............

Cotton

Silk or silk and cotton

Twill

Satin

36

27-40

$ .25-$ .50 $1.00-$5.00

Glossy, soft to touch. Lining for waists and skirts; petticoats. High gloss; soft; heavy and light. Dresses,

Satin................

Cotton

Plain

coats, skirts. Crinkled surface; with stripes. Petticoats,

Seersucker...........

27-36

$ .25

rompers, etc.

Serge................

Wool, worsted, silk

Twill

48-58

$1.00-13.00

Either hard or soft finish; shines easily; wears long time. Suits, skirts, dresses.

Shantung............

Silk Wool

Cotton

Plain Twill

36 48-54

$ .75-S1.50 $1.00-$3.00

Shepherd's Plaid.....

Checked; in black, or colors and white.

Skirts, suits, top-coats. Open weave, sheer, usually embroidered.

Swiss................

Silk

Plain

32-45

32-40

$ .75-$2.00 $1.00-$4.00

Lingerie blouses and dresses. Plain colors or changeable; soft qualities.

Taffeta..............

Wears well if not adulterated. Lustrous.

Coats, dresses, etc.

Tricot..............

Wool, cotton, silk Wool

Twill Plain

50-54

$2.00-$3.00 $1.00-$2.50

Twill weave, fine. Men's and women's suits.

Tweed..............

Rough surface; long wear; presses well.

Suits, skirts, sport, or travelling coats.

Velvet...............

Silk or silk and linen or cotton

Pile

18

$1.00-110.00

Rich and deep in tone. Dresses, coats, hats.

Velveteen............

Cotton Worsted or cotton warp and worsted filling

Pile Twill

27-36 50-54

$1.00 $1.50-$3.00

Like velvet, not so rich; suits and dresses.

Venetian............

Like broadcloth; shows twill; coats, suits.

Voile................

Worsted Cotton

Wool

Plain Twill '

38-45

$1.50 $ .25-$1.00

Open weave; firm in wool, very soft in cotton. Fancy suits in wool; separate skirts. Lingerie dresses and blouses in cotton.

Loosely woven; glossy surface; long hairs

Zibeline.............

$2.00-$4.00

on surface. Dresses and suits.

Fig. 13.   Linen fabrics suitable for skirts, coats, and dresses.

Fig. 13. - Linen fabrics suitable for skirts, coats, and dresses.

Fig. 14.   Wool fabrics suitable for skirts, dresses, and coats.

Fig. 14. - Wool fabrics suitable for skirts, dresses, and coats.

Upper row (left to right), challis, albatross, shepherd's checks. Second row (left to right), brilliantine, serge, gabardine. Third row (left to right), broadcloth, diagonal, and striped zibeline. Lower row (left to right), cheviot (2) and covert cloth.

Fig. 15.   Silk fabrics suitable for dresses and wraps. Upper row (left to right), silk serge, moire (2).

Fig. 15. - Silk fabrics suitable for dresses and wraps. Upper row (left to right), silk serge, moire (2).

Second row (left to right), chiffon velvet, silk poplin, and crepe meteor. Third row (left to right), silk net, plaid taffeta, faille.