Shirtwaist Pattern

To Increase Bust Measure

Draw a line straight down from the center of the shoulder, through the waist line on both pieces of the pattern. Cut through these lines and separate the pieces enough to give one-quarter of the whole amount needed on both back and front (Fig. 87A and B).

To Decrease Bust Measure

Lay a fold extending from the center of the shoulder straight through the waist line on both pieces of the pattern, the fold to take up one-quarter of the entire amount the pattern needs to be decreased (Fig. 88).

To Lengthen Back And Front

Cut through pattern about two inches above the waist line; separate the pieces enough to give the added length, being careful to straighten the underarm seam line

Fig. 87. - Alteration of waist patterns; A, B, increasing bust measure; C, increasing width of sleeve. which is broken by the separation of the parts of the pattern (Fig. 89A and B).

Fig. 88. - Alteration of waist patterns; A, B, decreasing bust measure; C, decreasing width of sleeve.

To Shorten Back And Front

Lay a fold through the pattern about two inches above the waist line on both back and front, the fold taking up the extra length. Straighten the underarm seam line by turning edge of pattern back on itself (Fig. 90A and B).

Fig. 89. - Alteration of waist patterns; A, B, increasing length of front and back; C, increasing sleeve length.

Fig. 90. - Alteration of waist patterns; A, B, decreasing length of front and back; B, decreasing sleeve length.

When the figure is extremely long and full in the bust, it is sometimes necessary to lengthen in two places, across the chest and back, as well as at the point above the waist line.

To Alter Sleeve

Apply the same principle for making wider or narrower, longer or shorter, as has been suggested for the waist (Figs. 87C, 88C, 89C, 90C).

Alteration Of Gored Skirt Patterns

To Increase Waist And Hip Measure

Cut lengthwise through the centre of each side gore and separate the pieces sufficiently to give in all, one-half the amount necessary, adding equally to each gore (Figs. 91C, 92A).