This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Berkeley cambric Cotton crepe Linen Longcloth Nainsook
(a) Valenciennes. .
2. Embroidered edging Embroidered insertion Embroidered beading Entre-deux, suited to material of garment
Bias strips. .
Nainsook is one of the daintiest cotton materials used for making corset covers. It admits of very simple or elaborate decoration, wears well, and launders easily.
For hard wear, however, with wool and heavy cotton and linen waists, longcloth and Berkeley cambric will give longer service. Crepe commands its place as a material needing no ironing, so is to be considered for that quality, if for no other. It can be simply but daintily trimmed, and, worn under garments not too sheer, does not betray itself as the inexpensive material which it is. Crepe gives fairly good service, but when it begins to show signs of wear, will suddenly tear in slits along the strips of "crinkles."
Bear in mind the essential things to be thought about: The use to which the garment will be put, i.e., worn with lingerie or heavy waists, and base the choice of material and trimming upon that. Observe always simplicity of line and decoration. Use trimming in accord with the fabric. Strive first 264 for faultless line, and then for excellent finish. Do not neglect to try the garment on to test the lines of neck and armhole.
To calculate, open the pattern, lay the straight edge of the front on the edge of the table (representing the fold of the goods) ; slip the back into the curve of the neck of the front, the straight edge of the back on a fold (edge of table). Lay peplum pattern, so that center back is on the fold. Then measure from the lowest end of the front to the highest point on the peplum, to ascertain the quantity needed for the body of the corset cover. For trimming, measure neck curve and armhole, and calculate, allowing plenty of material for seaming and matching patterns.
The garment chosen for instruction in the principles of making, is a corset cover to be cut from a pattern developed from a shirtwaist pattern, which has already been tested and fitted. The garment is to be simply trimmed with tucks, beading, lace and featherstitching (Fig. 161). It is important at the beginning to gain a clear understanding of constructive principles, rather than spend a great deal of time on non-essential points which will be covered later in the making of many garments.
1. Prepare material according to directions on p. 227.
(a) Measure the length for the waist line on the center front of the pattern to the neck curve.
(b) Measure from the cut ends of the material on the fold, the same amount as above, plus two inches; place a pin, and from this pin trace along the woof threads for three to four inches.
(c) Decide on the finished width of the box plait (one inch), and cut from the fold, on the traced line, through both thicknesses of cloth, twice the width of the plait, plus the turn. Cut through the fold to cut ends of the material.
(d) Lay box plait and hem, with regard to the right and left hand side when garment is cut; baste to place.
(e) Plan, measure and run tucks (p. 400), leaving ends of thread at both top and bottom when tuck is finished, so that after fitting, if desired, they can be lengthened or shortened without breaking or joining threads.
(/) Lay box plait and hem together, folding both directly through the center.
Fig. 161. - Corset cover, simple decoration, tucks, featherstitching, embroidery beading and lace.
3. To Cut. - (a) Place broad end of the front of the pattern to the cut cuds of the material, the center front on the center of fold of the box plait.
(b) Place the back of the pattern with its straight edge on the lengthwise fold, the neck and shoulders fitting into the curve of the front.
(c) Place the pattern of the peplum so that the center back is on the lengthwise fold of the material. If by any mistake there is a scant quantity of material, the pattern may be placed so as to have a seam in the center back. In this case set the pattern far enough from the selvedges so as to allow for cutting the belt.
(d) The belt should be lengthwise of the material, because the warp threads are strong and will stand strain when the garment begins to wear. Cut it three to four inches longer than the waist measure and one and one-quarter to one and one-half inches wide. See that seam allowance is provided for, but that there is no unnecessary waste. Pin pattern to place.
(e) Cut out, according to directions on p. 96. If by any chance the tucks should have been cut through in cutting out the neck curve, draw the thread up from the bottom, where a generous length should have been left.
(f) Trace the, waist line; then from the waist line up, trace the underarm seams; trace neck and shoulder lines, all directly around the edge of pattern.