Reading Pattern

Follow very carefully the directions given on p. 182, for the purchase, reading, and testing of commercial patterns. Take the length measure from the highest point of the shoulder at the neck to the point below the waist you desire the blouse to reach.

Cutting Blouse

When the pattern has been tested, lay the pieces on the material, with regard to the grain. Pin to place. Cut out on the edge of the pattern; trace, but do not cut notches.

Marking Seams

Mark all seams with tracing wheel.

Construction

Certain parts of this garment may be placed before the garment is basted.

Pockets

Either one of two types of pockets may be used:

1. (a) Set-in-Pocket (Fig. 174). - (A) mark the place indicated on the pattern for the pocket slit, with colored thread. Cut the pocket one inch wider than the marking, by ten inches long. B shows wrong side of A. (C) Lay the right side of the pocket to the right side of the blouse, the upper edge of pocket one inch above the line of colored basting. Mark the line for the slit through the pocket, with running stitches. (D) Place a row of stitching all round the marking for the slit, one-sixteenth inch from the running stitches. (E) Cut the slit and turn the pocket through to the wrong side of the blouse. (F) Baste closely all around the edge of the slit, letting the material, of the pocket slip over enough to form a narrow piping. (G) Stitch close to the lower edge of the slit. (II) Fold the pocket in half, with all the edges even. (I) Stitch along the upper edge of the slit. (J) Stitch a seam at the side of the pocket. Overcast all raw edges. Finish the ends of the pocket with a bar-tack or arrow-head.

(B) Set-In Pocket With Colored Facing

Cut a strip for facing one inch wider than space indicated for slit by two inches deep.

Fig. 174.   Set in pocket; A, basting to mark for slit, right side garment; B, wrong side of A; C, pocket basted to right side of garment; D, wrong side C; E, pocket drawn through to wrong side garment, edge basted; F, wrong side E; G, pocket stitched, right side; H, completed pocket, wrong side.

Fig. 174. - Set-in pocket; A, basting to mark for slit, right side garment; B, wrong side of A; C, pocket basted to right side of garment; D, wrong side C; E, pocket drawn through to wrong side garment, edge basted; F, wrong side E; G, pocket stitched, right side; H, completed pocket, wrong side.

Place the right side of facing to the right side of the blouse; baste to place through line marked for slit. Cut pocket as in 1A ; place top edge of pocket (wrong side of pocket to wrong side of blouse) so that it just conies to the mark for the slit; baste to place. Stitch on both sides of mark for slit as in the other (Fig. 174) ; cut and turn facing through to wrong side, leaving piping of color to show on edge; stitch lower edge of slit; turn lower edge of facing in, baste to pocket and stitch. Proceed as with other pocket.

2. Patch Pocket. - (1) Before placing the pocket, stitch a piece of one-quarter-inch linen tape across the blouse on the line of the top of the pocket to strengthen the blouse where the stitching of the pocket ends. Cut by the pattern, turn the hem at the top, as indicated on the pattern, and turn the edges in one-quarter inch on the other three sides. Stitch across hem at top. Baste to place at the points indicated on the pattern. Stitch on the edge and again, one-quarter inch inside the first stitching to correspond with the other stitching on the blouse; also to cover the raw edge of the material.