This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Box plaits are sometimes used to finish the sleeve at the hand. Baste according to markings on pattern, stitch to place, finishing stitching according to individual taste (Fig. 176). Baste underarm and sleeve seam and stitch in one. Trim front seam to one-quarter inch and back to three-eighth inch; turn back to front and stitch as a fell.
The extensions at the lower part of the sleeve may be turned back, on line with the seam of sleeve so as to lap; they may be hemmed, and buttons and buttonholes used for 20 fastening, the lower edge of the sleeve (Fig. 176A-B). (b) A very flat smooth finish can be made by first turning the upper side of the placket on a line with the upper side of the fell on the sleeve; the lower edge of the sleeve one-quarter inch (mitering the corners), and the under side of the placket one-eighth inch beyond the under edge of the fell; baste linen tape three-eighth inch wide to sleeve to form a facing; stitch on both edges, letting stitching cross at top of placket. Place buttonholes lengthwise of this placket and use small buttons, two or three, according to the length of the placket, Fig. 176A and B.
Either method described for finishing the placket may be used for a sleeve finished with a cuff. If the collar has been trimmed with braid, the cuff should also have braid on it. The braid is usually placed as shown in Fig. 176D, but not so as to interfere with the buttonholes. Stitch the braid to the outer piece of the cuff, then place the two right sides of the cuff together, turning the edges which will be set on the sleeve back one-quarter inch and creasing them firmly. Baste through these turned edges when seaming the cuff; stitch, trim corners, turn and baste edges to hold them firm. Gather sleeve as indicated on pattern; slip the edge of the sleeve between the two turned edges of the cuff, adjust the gathers according to the marks, baste first the outer turned edge of cuff, then the inner. Make a continuous stitching around the edge of the cuff (Fig. 176A).
A false cuff is sometimes used on the box-plaited sleeve. It is made of a single lengthwise strip of material basted to the wrong side of the sleeve after the placket has been faced, stitched and turned to the right side and stitched again. This strip of material may be trimmed with braid the same as the cuff. One buttonhole lengthwise of the cuff should be sufficient because the cuff is narrow. The outer end of the buttonhole should be one-half inch from the end of the cuff and placed in the centre of the depth. There should be one buttonhole lengthwise of the placket and three-quarter inch above the cuff.
Short sleeves may be finished with a turn-back cuff, a plain cuff or the edge of the sleeve may be hemmed and the sleeve rolled when worn.
Eyelets, through which a lacer is run, may be worked on each side of the center front, above the end of the opening; or a tie, made by cutting diagonally through a square of silk and hemming the cut edges may be used.
The shield, cut double, is stitched together, turned and stitched again. Buttonholes should be worked in the shield at the place indicated on the pattern. Sew buttons to corresponding points on the waist.
Emblems for the sleeve may be worked on a piece of cloth, which is catch-stitched to the sleeve, before the seam is stitched up. A band of color is sometimes stitched to the opposite sleeve, before its seam is closed. Yokes are sometimes applied to the blouses. This should be done before putting the garment together.