Stitching Shirt

Remove cuff and collar band, open underarm seam and stitch box plait one-quarter inch from each edge, the hem directly on the inner edge, and back and front yoke on the edge, also one-quarter inch above. Stitch sleeve at armhole on the basting, with upper stitch on top side of sleeve. Trim seam of sleeve to one-quarter inch and shirt to three-eighth inch. Turn edge of shirt in, baste, and stitch on edge.

Placket

Place and stitch placket facings according to the directions for placket on p. 323. Stitch seam of sleeve and underarm seam in a continuous line. Finish as a fell one-quarter inch wide, turning the underarm seam toward the front. Gather the lower part of sleeve between the points indicated on pattern. Use two rows of gathers one-quarter inch apart, the upper to be removed after the cuff is placed. Seam the two pieces of the cuff together, turning back both edges which are to be placed on the sleeve, one-quarter inch, before stitching. Trim corners diagonally. Turn cuff to the right side, baste the turned edges to keep them firm. Place the right side of cuff to sleeve, laying the turned edge on the gathers, distributing the same across cuff. Fold under lap of placket back on the cuff before basting to place. Place under edge of cuff and baste. Stitch all around cuff directly on the edge. Place a second row of stitching across cuff where it joins sleeve one-quarter inch below the first stitching.

Fig. 179.   High turn over collar for shirt; A .detail of making; B, completed collar.

Fig. 179. - High turn-over collar for shirt; A .detail of making; B, completed collar.

Stitch the collar band, turning the lower edges back one-eighth inch before stitching seam. Turn to right side, turn and crease edges and place on neck of waist. Stitch once on the edge, all around band. Follow directions given for making collar bands, either type, on pp. 319-320.

Collar

The turn-over collar, directions for making which are found on p. 320, is the type usually worn with this skirt, except when women follow the fashion of wearing an open neck, which insures greater freedom and comfort. This second method of finishing the neck is described on p. 328.

Buttonholes

These are placed in the box plait and collar band in the same maimer as the shirtwaist, p. 327, and the same type of buttonhole used. Four buttonholes are placed in the cuffs (Fig. 178), being careful to work them so that in each case the right side of the buttonhole is on the top part of the cuff.

Stitch the waist band to place and finish the bottom with a narrow hem.

Suggestive Questions

1. What materials are suitable for middy blouses? Which would you select?

2. Describe the process of making a set-in pocket ?

3. Name the steps of procedure in making a middy blouse. In what way is the making of a mannish shirt similar?

4. Illustrate on cloth how to make an arrowhead.

5. What materials are suitable for mannish shirts?

6. What seams should be used on this garment?

7. Which type of cuff best suits it?

8. How do you set a plain back of a shirt into a yoke? A gathered back?