Cuffs

Any one of three types of cuffs may be used on tailored shirt sleeves.

Interlined Cuff

An interlining may be used for one or two reasons; to make a soft cuff firmer or when fashion decrees, stiff cuffs to serve as a stiffener. In the first case fine, soft materials may be used, such as lawn or cambric; in the second, coarsely woven materials, such as butcher's linen or heavy muslin. In either case the interlining should be shrunken before using. Cut the interlining one-quarter inch smaller than the cuffs on all sides. Place on wrong side of the under piece of the cuff and baste to place. Stitch back and forth across, so as to prevent blistering when laundered. Place the two right sides of cuff together; the edges that are to be placed on the gathers should be turned back one-quarter inch. Baste around the other three sides of the cuff and stitch, being careful not to catch the edge of the interlining in the stitching. Cut off the corners so as not to add to the thickness when completed. Turn cuff right side out and baste folded edge carefully, but do not stitch until after placing on sleeve (Fig. 186A).

Triple Fold Cuff

The special advantage of this cuff is that there is no undue thickness to mar the smooth tailor finish. It is, moreover, neither difficult to make nor place. Take a lengthwise strip of cloth having a selvedge edge. Cut it three times the depth you wish the finished cuff to be and the necessary length. Add one-quarter inch seams to the length. Working from the selvedge edge, fold the two right sides together and divide into thirds, folding back and forth. Stitch across the ends. Turn right side out and the cuff is ready to place (Fig. 186B).

French Or Turn-Back Cuff

This is usually made of two pieces of cloth. Cut the length desired by twice the depth, plus one-quarter-inch seams. If cut of one piece, the same length by four times the depth. It is sometimes interlined, in which case the interlining should be cut the full size of the cuff as it cannot be cross-stitched to the under side. When the material is firm do not interline this cuff. There are at any rate four thicknesses of material to lie back on the wrist without the interlining, and in most cases it is unnecessary. Fold back edges one-quarter inch as in interlined cuff, baste and stitch seam. Turn to right side and it is ready to place (Fig. 186C).

Placing Cuff

Find a point one inch beyond the center of the length of the cuff. Place this point to the seam of the sleeve, letting the shorter end of the cuff come to the under side of the sleeve. Set the folded edge of the cuff to the outer row of gathers, adjust fulness. If cuffs are to be used for links, turn the under side of the placket back on the sleeve and set both within the cuff. If the cuff is to button over, do not fold the under placket back (Fig. 186H and I). Be sure that both sides of placket measure the same length. Baste cuff to place. Let under fold of cuff, or in the triple fold cuff, let the selvedge lie directly on top of the gathers, on the under side of the sleeve; baste to place. Make a continuous stitching all around the cuff, close to the edge, and where it joins the sleeve add a second row of stitching one-quarter inch from the first, straight across the sleeve. Remove second row of gathers from sleeve (Fig. 186G).