This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
(1) Embroidered edge or beading, the correct size for the neck, may be used to hold the gathers in place and serve for a facing as well. Place two rows of gathers around the top of the garment, one-quarter inch apart. Draw the gathers to fit the neck, trim the plain part of the edging away so that there is sufficient material beyond the embroidery to serve as a facing, then lay the right side of the garment to the right side of the edging, the finished edge lying in reverse position, letting the line of gathers come just beyond 17
Fig. 153. - Lace edging overhanded to raw edge of garment.
Fig. 154. - Lace fagotted to material.
the embroidery of the edging; baste and stitch on the line of gathers. Remove bastings, turn edging down to position, crease seam, turn in one-eighth inch on plain edge, second row of gathers, baste and stitch to garment (Fig. 156).
Draw gathers to fit neck, set into entre-deux with seam bound with surplus material, and edging, which is also gathered into entre-deux with bound seam.
Fig. 1 55. - Lower edge of lace edging hemmed to material; raw edge of material whipped to lace; lace gathered to fit at top; beading overhanded to lace, and narrow lace edging to beading.
Fig. 156. - Embroidered edging used as decoration and facing for gathered edge of garment.
Set the entre-deux or insertion into the neck of the garment in any approved way. The upper edge of these may be treated in one of two ways: (1) Trim the plain material close to the embroidery on entre-deux or insertion and overhand lace or footing to this, or (2) leave a seam of one-eighth inch of material and overhand lace to this raw edge (Fig. 158).
Fig. 157. - Embroidered edging, gathered, and beading used as decoration and finish for gathered edge of garment.