Problem I

Using strips of paper four and one-half by ten inches, design models of plaits, box plaits and inverted box plaits. (The latter are the same as two side plaits laid so as to face each other, Fig. 67.)

Problem II

Paper as above, designing models of double box plaits and simulated box plaits, showing a line of stitching through the center to form

Fig. 64.   Method of marking and laying side, box and simulated box plaits; A, side plaits;

Fig. 64. - Method of marking and laying side, box and simulated box plaits; A, side plaits; a ruching. Indicate the manner of finishing the lower edge of the plaiting, plain hem or hemstitching.

B, box plaits; C, simulated box plaits.

Scalloping

Variety of design combined with strength of wear may be obtained by the use of scalloping. The pattern may consist of a straight edge of scallops, or variations in shape and depth may be combined in the same design. Thought must be given to the type of garment upon which the design is to be carried out. Edges of skirts or drawers and the neck lines of corset covers and nightdresses admit of many variations (Figs. 162 and 168).

Problem I

Take a corset cover or night-dress pattern; place the shoulder seams together; plan a design for simple scalloping (small curves) and eyelets, for the neck and armhole finish; omit the eyelets at the armhole (Fig. 163).

Problem II

The same as above, adding (a) a simple design in scrolls, to be carried out in featherstitching (Fig. 168), or (b) a simple design for French embroidery (Fig. 163). These may be worked out and traced upon the garment or dainty designs may be chosen from the transfer patterns, and applied in the same way as embroidery patterns.

Problem III

(a) Plan a design for the lower edge of circular drawers. (5) A ruffle for straight drawers, the design turning at the corners of the ruffle, the ends of which are to be left open and scalloped.

Problem IV

Design an edge for a utility petticoat to be made of cotton poplin.

Lace And Bmbroidery Insets

Interesting designs in simple pattern may be carried out for the use of lace or embroidery on garments to be worn for dressy wear. Daintiness and simplicity must be the mark of such else the beauty will be lost in a mass of decoration. Bands of insertion of lace or embroidery, together with medallions of either, are used to elaborate garments, these often combined with bits of featherstitching or hand embroidery.

Problem I

Plan simple designs for top edges of corset covers and night-dresses, embodying some of the suggestions in Figs. 162, 169 and 170.

Problem II

Plan a simple design for a corset cover, to use lace insertion and feather stitching in the body of the garment, near the top, carrying across the garment in line with the top. Also plan the edge for the armhole.