This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Like all other plackets, that on a lingerie dress should be as inconspicuous as possible. If the skirt is of sheer material and very full, a continuous (bound) placket facing may be used. Cut this from the material and make according to directions for a one-piece placket on drawers (p. 247, Fig. 139), except that it should be sewed by hand. If the continuous placket facing should be too visible, net or lace braid may be substituted. On the side which turns back, run a facing of the net. Sew with small stitches. On the other side face the extension with the net by sewing it to the under side. Be careful not to have the extension wider than the facing on the other side of the placket. Use very small snap fasteners for the placket, one inch apart.
Turn the line on the bottom of the skirt as usual. If the skirt is rather straight, or only slightly gored, a hem may be used, but if very flaring, a facing will be necessary. Follow the direction for basting either hem or facing. A facing would need to be sewed first at the bottom, and turned back and basted at the top, the same as a hem. When either hem or facing is laid, it may, in sheer materials, be sewed with a running stitch at the top, or if of looser irregular weave, such as crepe, it may be sewed with a hemming stitch, placing it so the stitches do not show on the right side.
On a skirt cut of straight widths the hem is sometimes turned and finished on the right side of the skirt, using a cord in the top edge. To do this the seams must be clipped at the finishing line, turned, and stitched on the right side. A soft cable cord is then placed under the top of the hem and sewed in place with a running stitch. The hem is laid to the skirt, basted and then sewed down to the skirt directly under the cord (Fig. 233).
Pipings of white or color may be used in the top of the hem, if it is stitched by machine, or slip-stitching will make a softer, daintier finish. On very sheer materials the hems are sometimes cut into such shapes as one's fancy dictates, and the upper edges ornamented with decorative stitches. Another method of finishing is to run a heavy cord in the bottom of the hem to weight it and hold the fulness of the skirt out somewhat. Cords are sometimes sewed into the very edge of the material, the hem being omitted altogether. Or the edge may be rolled and whipped with heavy perle cotton, either in white or colors.
Ruffles, flounces, puffings or bands may be used to finish the bottom of a skirt. Such must be in accord with the other ornamentation of the dress. These may be set in under insertion, on bands, or at the lower edge of the skirt.
Lingerie dresses may be finished in various ways:
1. The skirt if of sheer soft material may be rolled and whipped to a plain, lace, or embroidered band, and the bottom of the waist treated in the same way.
2. The skirt may be shirred with a heading and set up on the waist, which has been previously gathered to a narrow band of tape, or the skirt may be drawn on a cord or a succession of cords forming a yoke, the waist being sewn to the top cord. A succession of shir-rings may form a yoke, and the top be set into a band of material; the same finish may be used for a skirt slightly gathered, or with sufficient fulness to ease in, and also for a skirt the fulness of which has been taken out in tiny tucks at the top. Both skirt and waist may be gathered into the band or each finished separately, or sometimes both set on a net or muslin underbodice which has been daintily trimmed. In using the latter, fasten waist and skirt together only at the waist in order to make laundering as easy as possible. A sash or girdle of silk or ribbon may be worn to cover the plain waist band.
The same principles would apply to the normal or raised waist line, the back or front closing, except that in the latter a portion of the skirt, unless opened directly in the front, must have a separate belt extending from the center front to the placket opening. This belt may be caught to the other by snap fasteners.
Use hooks and eyes for fastening the waist band, and snap fasteners, buttons and buttonholes or loops, for the placket, sleeves, collar and trimmings. If one does not like snap fasteners, small hooks and eyes and buttonholed loops make neat finishings.