Marking Seams

Waist: trace waist, neck and armhole lines, also the point at bust on front and side front; trace all around each piece of the pattern, from the waist line up and waist line down. Sleeve: trace elbow line around top, bottom and length of pattern. Mark waist, neck and armhole and elbow lines and center shoulder with colored thread. Collar: trace center front, darts and all around pattern. Mark center front with colored thread; baste darts, and turn upper and lower edge and right hand end on tracing and baste.

To Baste Waist For Fitting

Pin the pieces of the lining together, having waist lines and all tracings meet, pins at right angles to seams; leave waist open in center back for fitting. In pinning front and side front together, hold the more curved side toward you so that the fulness may be held in; let tracings at bust meet. Pin center of the shoulders and seam-lines at crossing together; hold back shoulder toward you, to ease material in to the front shoulder. Baste seams, using small stitches and sewing from waist line up and waist line down (Fig. 77).

FIG. 75.   Dress form, padded with tissue paper to fill out fitted lining.

FIG. 75. - Dress form, padded with tissue paper to fill out fitted lining.

Sleeve

Pin front seam together, having elbow lines meet; also the lines at the top and bottom; lay sleeve on table and fold the back seam of the upper sleeve over to seam of under sleeve; pin seam so that top lines meet, also bottom lines; then pin from bottom up, and top down, until the fulness at elbow is adjusted; baste seams, using small stitches (Fig. 78B).

Fig. 76.   Drafted pattern placed on material for cutting out, showing marks for seam allowance.

Fig. 76. - Drafted pattern placed on material for cutting out, showing marks for seam allowance.

Fig. 77.   Close fitting waist basted for fitting, except shoulder seam.

Fig. 77. - Close-fitting waist basted for fitting, except shoulder seam.

To Fit Waist

Clip seams at waist line and two inches above and below, to allow them to spring when waist is tried on. Place

Fig. 78.   Close fitting sleeve basted for fitting padded sleeve for draping; A, padded sleeve;

Fig. 78. - Close-fitting sleeve basted for fitting padded sleeve for draping; A, padded sleeve; waist on figure with seams inside. Pin waist together in center back, keeping waist and: neck lines together, pins at right angles to edge and close enough together to keep edges smooth. Draw waist together smoothly over figure and pin occasionally around the hips to keep it from slipping up. Turn underarm and shoulder seams toward the front in fitting. Look waist over carefully and note the trend of the seam lines. Fit on right hand side only. Fit at waist first, then if there is any fulness over hips, fit this out; or if the reverse, let out seams, being careful in either case to keep good lines, placing pins close together and in even lines. Then fit shoulder, armhole and neck, if necessary.

B, basted sleeve.