Straight Facings For Corset Covers

Should there be a scant quantity of material in making a corset cover, straight facings may be used in place of cutting box plaits and hems in one with the garment. Also, in place of allowance for an invisible fastening. In such cases, cut the garment the finished size, allowing seam to join to facing and the facing the finished size plus seams. Nightdresses may be treated in the same way.

Straight Placket Facings For Drawers (Closed)

Continuous

Facing {bound and faced). - (1) Cut a lengthwise strip of material twice the length of the placket, and twice the desired width of the facing, plus the seam (one and one-half inches). Place right side of facing to right side of garment, then, holding garment toward you, haste a seam one-eighth inch in width, to within one-quarter inch of the end of the placket; hold the facing straight and stitch by hand around the lower end of the placket, easing the fulness into the facing; continue stitching one-quarter inch above end of opening, then baste the remainder of the seam as on the first side. Stitch by machine, holding garment on top so as not to lay fulness in plaits. Crease firmly, desired width of extension, entire length; same amount again and turn on the front; first the center of the width of the facing, then on the line of the seam, turning seam toward facing on the front. Fold front part of facing on center crease, one-quarter inch beyond end of placket; turn in raw edges on line of stitching; this forms the extension. On the back of placket, cut facing away one-eighth inch beyond the center crease, turn in one-eighth inch on edge, and baste facing down to drawers along this fold. Hem facing, then close placket and stitch diagonally across the lower end to make firm (Figs. 137 and 138).

Petticoat

Continuous Facing (Bound)

(2) Proceed in the same way as described above for closed drawers, but do not cut any part of facing away; continue the same all around and lay upper side of facing back against skirt and catch at top by stitching of band (Fig. 139).

Invisible Closing

For this placket facing, cut a lengthwise strip of material twice the length of the placket and three inches wide. Place right side of facing to right side of garment; hold garment toward you and baste one-eighth-inch seam to within one-quarter inch of the lower end of placket; stitch around point of placket, holding facing straight, stitches to be taken same distance from edge as rest of seam. When stitching has been carried one-quarter inch above the lower end of placket, finish basting seam on this side and then stitch all the way around by machine. Crease the seam firmly on the folded edge; measure three-quarter inch from fold and crease the length of the facing. Cut across the facing at the lower end of the placket to the three-quarter-inch crease. On the left hand side of the placket measure seven-eighth inch from the three-quarter-inch fold of the facing and cut the remainder of the

Fig. 137.   Continuousfacingfordrawersplacket,bound and faced;detail

Fig. 137. - Continuousfacingfordrawersplacket,bound and faced;detail cloth away. Turn one-eighth inch and crease; baste fold to the stitching of the facing, hem to stitching. This forms an extension as the under side of the facing. On the right hand side, turn facing back on garment; baste and stitch to hold first seam on edge. From the three-quarter-inch crease, measure out a scant one and one-half inch and cut off remaining edge. Turn this raw edge just to the first three-quarter-inch crease, baste, turn again on first three-quarter-inch crease toward edge of skirt, so that the fold does not quite reach the first seam of facing; baste; stitch on first three-quarter-inch edge, down to within three-quarter inch of opening, and from that point stitch diagonally through skirt, and extension to end of opening (Fig. 140).

Fig. 138.   Completed facing.

Fig. 138. - Completed facing.

Fig. 139.   Continuous placket facing, bound, for petticoats or lingerie skirts.

Fig. 139. - Continuous placket facing, bound, for petticoats or lingerie skirts.

Bias facings are used to finish the edges and waist line of open drawers, armholes of corset covers and lower edge and waist line of plain silk petticoats. Follow the rules in each case for bias cutting and joining strips of bias material, p. 391.

Fig. 140.   Invisible closing for petticoat; A, completed facing; B, detail of facing.

Fig. 140. - Invisible closing for petticoat; A, completed facing; B, detail of facing.