This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
A bias facing is sometimes used to finish the arm-hole of a corset cover before sewing on lace. It is a strong finish, but not as attractive as the French hem, unless made very narrow and decorated with featherstitching or some other ornamentation (Fig. 163).
A bias facing is frequently used to finish both closed and open drawers at the waist line. It is also used to finish the front and back edges of open drawers. Such facing is used on drawers in Fig. 166.
When sufficient strips of material to cover the space have been cut and joined, place the right side of the facing to the right side of the garment, baste a narrow seam, stitch and turn directly on the edge and crease firmly. If material is inclined to slip, baste on the turned edge. Turn in the raw edge of facing, baste, and hem either by hand or finish with machine stitching (Fig. 141).
It is sometimes necessary to shape the facings for the edges of garments. Cut the material the same grain as the garment, and as deep as necessary. The method of applying the facing is the same as for bias facings (Fig. 142).
Tapes are sometimes used for fastening drawers and petticoats around the waist.
Snap fasteners make a satisfactory fastening for plackets of petticoats. One must be sure, however, in using them on cotton garments to buy only the "warranted not to rust goods"
Where there is extra material to be taken care of at the waist line in corset covers or night-gowns, it should be taken up with small tucks, or in gathers, set into a band. In either case, this will give a dainty appearance. For drawers or petticoats, plaits should be laid, or the fulness taken up in darts, or fitted out in the seams. Various methods of doing the above are given under the several garments.
Bands to confine the fulness and keep the garments in place are made of various materials, and any desired width: (1) Material of the garment, cut lengthwise in one or two pieces, according to the method of finishing. Use: Corset covers, drawers, petticoats or nightgowns. (2)0/ beading or insertion for use on corset covers, underbodices, combinations or night-dresses. (3) Linen tape, sometimes used for narrow bands on corset covers of heavy material, or for petticoats. May be of wide tape folded, or narrow, two thicknesses. (4) Elastic, used in hems on lower edge of underbodices or knickerbockers.
Fig. 141. - Bias facing.
Fig. 142. - Shaped facings; A, cutting facing; B, completed facing.