This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Show on a four-gore skirt pattern how it might be used to cut a three-gore skirt, with bias seam in the center back.
Design a circular flounce from four-gore skirt. Cut skirt and flounce from tissue paper. Finish skirt with plain seam, stitched on the outside; apply flounce with plain seam; stitch close to edge on outside. (Stitching represented by pencil, crayola, or colored thread.)
Various kinds of plaited skirts can be designed from the gored foundation skirt. If the foundation skirt has been cut out in cambric, fitted, altered and corrections made on the paper pattern, the designing may be immediately done on the material, or a paper pattern cut from the original. Use half-size pattern for practice.
1. Shirt with Plait on Each Seam. - Decide on the depth of the plait to be used. Have pattern one and one-half to twice the hip measure at the bottom, lay pattern on material, center front on fold, mark the waist line, hip and seam lines. Measure beyond the seam lines the depth of the plait two to two and one-half inches at the bottom, one to one and three-quarter inches at the hip line; cut top to follow seam line, also measure the seam allowance, beyond the depth of the plait. Use tailor's chalk to draw all lines on material, pencil for paper models. Place first gore with front edge on the lengthwise thread of the goods, far enough from the edge to allow for a seam and once the depth of the tuck. Mark seams, etc. Allow on the back of the gore the same as on the front panel, and mark. Trace all lines on the chalk board, or tailor-baste them. Treat all other gores in the same way (Fig. 67A and B).
Fold the back of each gore on the original seam line and baste one-quarter inch from turn. Lay this folded edge to the original seam line of the next gore, pin and baste to place; then turn to the wrong side and baste the seam, using the line indicating the depth of the tuck for a sewing line. The plait should be stitched on the right side as far as desired, the skirt turned to the wrong side, the seam stitched and trimmed away from where outside stitching stops, to top of skirt, to prevent bulkiness.
FIG. 67. - Method of designing skirts with plaits or tucks at seams, using gored patterns; A, designing plait at each seam, and inverted plait at center back; B, completed design; C, designing inverted plait at each seam; D, completed design.
2. Skirts with Plaits on Seams and Center of Gores. - Lay plait on front panel as before, and front edge of side gore. Fold other pieces of foundation pattern through the center from hip to bottom, and from hip to waist. Mark or crease firmly. Lay front edge of pattern to seam line of gore, measure beyond the folded edge of pattern twice the depth of plait desired; mark at the edge of the fold of pattern twice the depth of the plait. Take up pattern and lay the folded edge, reverse side up, along the last marking for plait. Allow beyond the gore edge of the pattern for the plait at seam and seam allowance the same as in the skirt with plaits on each seam; repeat with each succeeding gore. Baste plaits as before; fold the plaits in the center of the gores, take line for the fold of the plait and lay it over on the other line for the width of the plait. Baste to place; repeat on each gore. This type of plaited skirt, is not desirable, because the centre plaits, being very bias, do not hold their shape.