The purpose in learning to make underclothing is threefold: (1) To gain an understanding of economic values through the purchase and handling of materials, (2) to learn to appreciate and express through this medium, a feeling for simplicity of design and daintiness of attire, and (3) to acquire, through technical processes, skill and speed in the use of materials and equipment.

While there is much that is new to be learned on each garment, at the same time, some of the processes are very similar; for instance, the making of seams, certain finishes, and the application of trimmings. The making of each garment will be treated independently, but it has seemed best to set down in outline form the points to which attention must be directed in the planning and making of undergarments. Explanation of processes which may be exactly the same in two or more garments, as in the case of seams or decoration, will precede the problems of construction. For the sake of those who may have forgotten, or may not have had instruction in fundamental stitches, a brief review of these and their uses will be given, in order that the directions for the construction of the garments themselves may be more intelligently followed.

Following is an outline of the points to be considered, and the steps to be followed in making undergarments:

I. Designing..........

1. Types of garments

2. Suitable material

3. Suitable trimming

4. Suitable patterns

Selection

Calculations

Purchase quantity cost

II. Constructive processes:

(a) Tools and equipment for

1. Pattern making

2. Designing

3. Construction

(b) Stitches (review)

Review of those previously learned to be applied to new problems

(c) Cutting garments.......

1. Preparation of material

2. Placing pattern

3. Cutting

4. Marking seams

(d) Basting.........

1. Pinning seams

2. Sewing seams

(e) Fitting........

1. Adjusting to figure

2. Correcting

3. Altering

4. Second fitting

III. Making:

1. Seams

(1) Plain.....

Single seam

Two raw edges overcast

Petticoats

Dress skirts

Aprons

(2) French___

Double seam

Seam stitched; turned within; second stitching

Corset covers (entre-deux, use of)

Underbodices (entre-deux, use of)

Night-dresses

Petticoats

Lingerie dresses

(3) Fell......

Flat finish; double sewing

Stitched; one edge trimmed, other turned twice;

(1) hemmed, (2) overhanded or (3) stitched down Corset covers Drawers Petticoats

Flannel fell, flat finish

Second edge stitched once, catch-stitched down Flannel petticoats

2. Finishes

(a) Lower edges...

1. Petticoats

2. Drawers

3. Gowns

4. Sleeves

(1) Hems..

1. Plain

2. Faced or False

Straight or Shaped edge

Decoration.....

Hemming, running Machine stitching Feather or chain stitching Fagoting

Embroidery edging as facing Lace stitched to hem before hem basted

(2) Scalloping banding

1. Embroidered scallops

2. Bias bands same material

(for plain petticoats)

(3) Ruffles and flounces..

1. Straight a. Gathered b. Tucked

Flounce or dust ruffle

2. Bias

Gathered silk or satin for petticoats

3. Circular a. Single for drawers b. Sectional for petticoats a. Tucking b. Banding

Decoration.

1. Self.......

2. Lace embroidery .

a. Edging b. Insertion c. Entre-deux

3. Finishing braids

4. Machine stitching

5. Stitching

(b) Openings and plackets

1. Box plaits

1. Corset cover

2. Underbodice

3. Night-gown (right hand side for buttonholes)

2. Hems....

1. Corset cover

2. Underbodice

3. Night-gown (left hand side for buttons)

4.Invisible fastening

Hem and fly for buttons and buttonholes

5. Narrow hems each side petticoat opening

3. Facings

I. straight

1. Continuous

(a) Corset cover

(b) Drawers

(c) Petticoat

Visible and invisible fastening

2. Two piece

(a) Drawers

(b) Petticoat

II. Bias

(a) Corset cover, armhole

(b) Drawers

Open, to finish edge and top

(c) Petticoat

Silk, lower edge and waist line

4. Fastenings

1. Buttonholes

2. Buttons

3. Tapes

4. Hooks and eyes

5. Snap fasteners

Silk petticoat

(c) Waist line..

1. Disposal of fulness

1. Gathers

2. Tucks

3. Plaits

4. Darts

5. Seams