This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Berkeley cambric Long cloth Nainsook Crepe (cotton)
Suitable trimming for same
(a) Soft finished cambric
3. Lace edging Lace insertion
(a) Valenciennes. .
Finishing braid Serpentine braid
1. Ruffles or banding of same material
2. Ruffles of heavy net with stitched bands of material
3. Crepe de chine
1. Ruffles of same
2. Lace; shadow, etc., for evening wear
Brilliantine....................Bias flounce of same material
The list of materials given above covers a wide choice of fabrics, from which to select a petticoat.
Berkeley cambric and longcloth are suitable for petticoats to wear with cotton and linen dresses. Tucked flounces or bands of the same material may be used for simple decoration, or the flounces may be made of fine nainsook, batiste or Swiss, decorated with lace or stitching; embroidered flouncing may be used.
Nainsook is suitable for the body of the garment only when worn as an outer petticoat or slip under lingerie or soft silk dresses.
Cotton crepe is suitable for wear with dresses through which the texture of the material will not show. Its chief recommendation is its light weight and the fact that it requires no ironing.
Cotton poplin and pique make a heavier skirt, warmer because so closely woven, but recommend themselves because shadowproof. Because of their weight and thickness, only an edge trimming is possible, embroidered scallops, or a plain or shaped hem.
Sateen has a soft luster, is closely woven, but is much lighter in weight than poplin, and serves the same purpose as a single garment. It does not, however, retain its freshness and crispness as long as the poplin after frequent laundering. Because of its durability, it is also used in black and colors instead of silk for petticoats. Being soft in texture, a variety of decoration is possible, ruffles, bands, scallops.
Percale and chambray sometimes have a season of popularity. Both are very durable. Chambray is softer in finish; percale suggests stiffening, although it can be laundered without. Both materials may be trimmed with bands or ruffles. Scalloping, in white, on pink or blue chambray, is attractive. A durable flounce for a striped percale or chambray petticoat can be made of heavy white curtain net, edged with bands of the material and finished at the top with the same. Bands of striped percale, cut crosswise of the material, are more attractive than those cut bias. Percale skirts in black and white stripes stand endless laundering; the color of chambray does not hold quite as well as percale.
FIG. 164. - Petticoats; A, petticoat for general wear of cambric; B, utility petticoat of poplin.
Silk is very generally used for petticoats to be worn with tailored suits and dresses of wool, silk and linen. These may be finished with a hem at the bottom, or with dust ruffle, and gathered or plaited flounce, according to the fashion in width for the outer skirt. Silks of delicate colors for wear with lingerie or silk afternoon and evening dresses admit of more decoration, the flounces being made of the silk, chiffon, crepe Georgette or lace.
Pongee and crepe de chine are very durable, and retain their freshness for a long time, if carefully laundered.
Taffeta, messalines and satins, while not so durable, shed the dust easily. They are very generally used. A wide range of colors is to be had, as well as black and white.
Brilliantine, like percale, has good qualities. It is durable, sheds dust readily, is wiry, holds its luster, is light in weight. Good grades of brilliantine can be successfully washed.