Net, lace or chiffon blouses should be made over linings of net or chiffon, cut on the same or closer lines than the blouse itself. Under this should be worn a net or silk underbodice simply trimmed. The blouse may be designed on the lines of any of the good models of the day.

Fig. 218, A, B.   Methods of finishing seams of silk dresses.

Fig. 218, A, B. - Methods of finishing seams of silk dresses.

Seams

French seams, machine hemstitching or fagoting may be used.

Decoration

Hemstitching, fagoting, embroidery in silk or worsted, and beads make attractive trimmings. Strive to use just that which will give a distinctive note to the blouse.

Fastenings

The same as for other garments, snap fasteners, and hooks and eyes.

Silk Blouse

The treatment of such should be practically the same as that of the waist of an unlined silk dress. It may be finished at the waist with (1) a peplum, (2) a band finished to the waist measure, (3) cut longer by several inches, and a casing stitched near the bottom, through which an elastic can be run.

Guimpes are here classified under two heads:

1. The soft underwaist, with long or short sleeves, high or low collar, for wear with sleeveless overblouse or other material.

2. Guimpe of net or lace, with high, close-fitting collar and yoke, cap sleeves for shields, to be worn with silk or wool dresses.

The first type of guimpe need not claim our attention at present, because it should be constructed on the same principles as a lingerie waist or chiffon blouse.

Net guimpes with close-fitting collar. This may be made in one of two ways:

1. Draped Guimpe. - If one has a dress-form padded to fit her figure, the better method would be to work directly on the form (Fig. 219).

To Drape Front

Measure strip of net from one edge, wide enough to reach from underarm seam to underarm seam, and allow one-inch tuck on each side of guimpe. Fold through center of strip and run a colored basting through this. Place this line to center front of form; allow sufficient material at top to give shoulder seams. Pin to place through center front. Slash through net at front, above neck to permit stretching across chest and around neck; stretch tight across chest; cut away material one-half inch above neck. Keep net smooth across chest, lay in one-half-inch tuck inside armhole; sew tuck, run from shoulder about four inches. Trim out armhole, allowing plenty of seam here and at shoulder. Adjust fulness at waist; pin back of underarm seam.

To Drape Back

Fold one inch back on one edge of net; baste. Place on left-hand side of back, letting one-half inch extend beyond center. Pin to place, stretch net across back; pin shoulder seams; trim around armhole, allowing seams; adjust fulness at waist, and pin underarm seams. Cut extra material away. Fold back one inch on other edge of net; place folded edge to center hack, and proceed as with the other side. Pin linen tape or Prussian binding to guimpe at waist line, distributing fulness as needed; draw net down tight. Mark neck line with colored thread. Sew shoulder seams on form, finish as fell on right side. Baste underarm seam on form also.

Fig. 219.   Net guimpe, showing cap sleeve collar, back and waist finish, the material of guimpe having been cut away under yoke.

Fig. 219. - Net guimpe, showing cap sleeve collar, back and waist finish, the material of guimpe having been cut away under yoke.