This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
The hem of the skirt may be laid and finished like that of the tailored skirt (Fig. 215), where the material is heavy, but where light weight woolen materials, such as challis and albatross are used, when the hem has been cut evenly, turn in the top one-quarter inch, baste and press; then gather the fulness in at the top and after basting this top edge to the skirt, blind-stitch the hem and press. Hems on voile are sometimes bound the same as the seams, and this binding blind-stitched to the skirt. When the skirt is cut on very flaring lines, a facing will be needed instead of a hem. Cut this according to the directions given on p. 263.
When the garment is to be made a one-piece dress, set the skirt to the belt on the line indicated in fitting, adjust fulness and stitch skirt to place. Cover raw edge with seam binding after the waist has been placed. The whole will be finished by the girdle or outside belt.
When woolen skirts are cut very long and full, the lower edges need to be protected from the wear and tear of brushing stairs and floors. Use skirt braid for this purpose. There are two kinds manufactured, a worsted braid and one of mercerized cotton. The latter is more satisfactory, because it does not mar the shoes as much as the worsted, although it may not wear quite as long. If the worsted braid be used, it should be shrunk before sewing to the skirt.
Let the edge of the braid extend one-eighth inch below the edge of the skirt, baste to place. Sew one-quarter inch above the lower edge with running stitches and hem the upper edge to the skirt. Use Kerr's luster thread letter "A" instead of sewing silk, as it wears better. Join the braid in the center back, a plain seam, opened and the raw edges catch-stitched to keep them smooth.
When necessary alterations are completed, stitch the seams of the waist, clip to within one-quarter inch of the stitching at the waist line and two inches above and below, press open, and finish the same as the skirt seams, unless for some reason it is necessary to use some other finish. When stitching the seams of a kimono waist, baste a narrow strip of silk at the curve of the seam, and stitch with the seam. This will stay it at the point of greatest strain. Clip the seams at the deepest part of the curve to within one-quarter inch of the stitching. Round the corners of the notches just made. If the waist has a sleeve set into the armhole without fulness, the seam of the sleeve frequently is on a line with the underarm seam, in which case, first place the sleeve in the waist, then stitch underarm and sleeve seam in a continuous line.
Stitch and finish the seams of the sleeves the same as the waist. If the sleeve has two seams, notch the inside seam at the elbow, and two inches above and two inches below, to prevent it from drawing. Notch the seam of a one-piece sleeve in the same way. Round the corners of the notches and press the seams open. Use the small round seam board to slip inside the sleeve when pressing seams.