This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
All trimming, such as revers, folds, cords, braids, passementerie, etc., should be basted to such places as are indicated in fitting the dress, but these should not be sewed until after the final fitting. Braiding in design, if placed on the body of the dress, should also be worked out before the dress is finally put together. When using such on collars, cuffs or revers, the outline of these should be marked on the material from the fitted pattern of each and the braiding done before the pieces are lined. The same is true of designs embroidered in coarse silks or worsteds. All bands and folds should first be basted, then slip-stitched to the dress. Revers may be set on the front edge of the waist and finished as you would the flat or rolling collar. Vests are sometimes set into the waist, or on the net or silk lining. They can be sewed by hand to the edge of the waist, or catch-stitched to the net lining.
Any one of the following methods may be employed where best suited to the particular type of dress.
1. Adjust the fulness of the waist to the belt, and stitch the waist to place; trim the material away, one-quarter inch below the stitching. Set the top of the skirt, already finished plain, with a cord or piping, on this stitching, baste, and sew to place by hand or machine, as the finish of the skirt may require.
2. If a belt or girdle is to be worn, the edges of the skirt and waist may be just brought together on the belt, stitched, and the raw edges covered with taffeta seam binding.
3. The waist may be finished as a separate waist, to be worn inside the skirt. In such case use any suitable finish for shirtwaist Place the skirt on a separate band, finishing for a normal or raised waist line.
4. Should the bottom of the waist fall outside the skirt waist line, as in a basque, tunic or peplum, it must be finished with a facing extending from one inch to two inches above the edge, or lining throughout if needed. If the lower edge of the skirt piece is straight, it may be hemmed, using Prussian binding to finish it. In either case, place the right side of facing or lining to the right side of the garment, baste to place, stitch, turn so that facing will not show from right side, baste on turned edge, turn upper edge in and slip-stitch to garment. Press carefully. Facings for such problems must often be fitted to the lower edge of the garment before cutting. Bias facings, unless narrow, do not always fit. All trimmings, such as bands, braids, etc., should be applied before the waist is faced.
1. What materials are suitable for making a tailored skirt of wool?
2. What materials and trimmings would you suggest for making a school or street dress of wool?
3. What should you consider in planning your design?
4. Would you make up ready-sponged material without further testing ?
5. What is the difference between the placket finish on bias seams of linen and wool skirts?
6. How would you finish the seams of the waist and skirt of a wool school dress?