Back (Fig. 45)

AA equals line of indefinite length.

AB equals length of back.

BB equals construction line, two-thirds of AA.

AG equals one-half of AB.

CC equals construction line, equals AA.

AD equals one-half of AC.

DD equals construction line, equals AA.

AE equals one-sixth of neck measure.

EF equals three-quarter inch.

DG equals one-half width of back plus three-quarter inch.

GH equals AE.

HI equals three-quarter inch.

FI equals shoulder line.

CJ equals one-quarter increased bust measure minus two inches.

BK equals one-quarter waist measure plus one and one-quarter inches. KK1 equals one-quarter inch. BK1 equals waist line.

KL equals underarm measure from K1, ruler touching J. KM equals four-inch ruler on FKM.

BN equals four inches.

Fig. 45.   Draft of pattern for a mannish shirt.

Fig. 45. - Draft of pattern for a mannish shirt.

NM equals bottom of shirt.

DO equals three-quarter inch.

GP equals three-eighth inch.

OP equals line of yoke.

Front (Fig. 44)

AE equals one-sixth neck measure plus three-eighth inch. EF equals one-quarter inch. AF1 equals one-sixth neck measure. DG equals one-half width of front plus one and one-quarter inches. GH equals two-thirds DA (draw dotted line to left of H). FI equals ruler on F, shoulder measure touching I).

CJ equals one-half increased bust measure minus CJ of the back. JK equals dotted line. KK1 equals one inch.

K1L equals under arm measure touching A1 and J. K1M equals four-inch ruler on F and A'1.

N equals intersections of CJ, ruler on F and A1. F10 equals length of front. NP equals one-half-inch ruler on N and 0. I PL equals armhole. OR equals one and three-quarter inches. RS equals four-inch ruler on F1 and R. MS equals lower edge of shirt. • Shirt Sleeve (Fig. 46A)

AB equals line of indefinite length (in centre of paper). AC equals one-quarter armhole (measure on shirtwaist draft). CD equals inside length of sleeve minus depth of curl". CE equals one-half width at top. EE1 equals one-half inch. EF equals three-quarter inch. AF equals dotted line.

G equals one-half of AF. GH equals line at right angles to AF intersecting CE (point of intersection I). IJ equals three inches. AF equals curve for top of under sleeve (using J as pivot, J A as radius, to swing curve from A to K. FK equals two inches along curve.

KE1 equals reverse curve to complete top of under sleeve. GL equals one inch. EM equals one and one-quarter inches. EN equals three and one-quarter inches. ALNME1 equals curve for top of upper sleeve.

DO equals hand measure plus fulness desired. DP equals one-half of DO. PS equals three-eighth inch. PR equals three-eighth inch. DSO equals bottom of under sleeve. DRO equals bottom of upper sleeve. ST equals placket opening four and one-half-inch cut on under sleeve. Fold paper on line AD and crease; trace outline of upper sleeve, and cut around pattern.

Collar Band (Turn Down Collar) (Fig. 46A.)

AB equals neck measure plus one and one-half inches. AD equals height of collar. ABCD equals rectangle.

AE equals one-half of AB. BF equals one-third of BE. AG equals one-third of AE.

AH equals one-quarter inch.

BI equals one-quarter inch.

HGEFI equals lower edge of band.

DJ equals one and three-quarter inches.

CK equals five-eighth inch.

KI equals end of band.

DE equals dotted line.

DI equals one-half inch.

HIJ equals curve for end of band.

EL equals centre of band.

LM equals five and one-half inches (notch for matching parts).

LN equals five and one-half inches (notch for matching parts).

EO equals five-eighth inch, equals buttonhole.

OP equals one-half neck measure - outer end of buttonhole.

OR equals one-half neck measure - outer end of buttonhole.

GF equals lengthwise thread of goods in cutting.

Collar {Turn Down) (Fig. 46B)

AB equals one-half neck measure. BC equals desired height of collar. ABCD equals rectangle. AE equals one inch.

AF equals one and three-quarter inches. DG equals one-quarter inch. GFE equals curve for corner of collar. CH equals five and one-half inches (notch for matching parts). CB equals lengthwise fold.

French or Turn Back Cuff (Fig. 46C)

AB equals hand measure plus one and one-half to two inches. BC equals twice finished depth of cuff. ABCD equals rectangle.

EF equals one-half depth of cuff (line for fold). DC equals lengthwise thread of goods.

Pocket (Fig. 46D)

AB equals four and one-half inches. BC equals five and one-half inches. ABCD equals rectangle.

AE equals one and three-eighth inches. BF equals one and three-eighth inches. EF equals line for hem at top. CG equals two and three-quarter inches. CH equals one inch. HI equals one-quarter inch. DJ equals one inch. JK equals one-quarter inch. Ah equals two inches. ELK equals side of pocket.

BM equals one and one-half inches. FMI equals side of pocket. KGI equals lower edge of pocket.

To Draft Shirt 108To Draft Shirt 109To Draft Shirt 110To Draft Shirt 111FIG. 46.   Draft of pattern for shirt sleeve, collarband, collar, cuff and pocket.

FIG. 46. - Draft of pattern for shirt sleeve, collarband, collar, cuff and pocket.

KO equals one and one-eighth inches. LN equals one and three-eighth inches.