This section is from the book "The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes: Being A Modern Treatise Of All The Processes Of Making And Manufacturing Footgear", by F. Y. Golding. Also available from Amazon: The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes.
The first description will be for a ladies' size 4 pattern and for a high heel, and is illustrated in Fig. 146. The line Js is two-thirds (measured from s) of the length of a 4's last; and Ja is the remaining third. The heel-line sH is made at an angle of 42° with the pitch-line sJ. The ankle is found as described in the previous paragraph, also the top of the leg, except that it is made 1/9 in. less at the back and front than the measurement of one-fourth of the leg measure. After the measurements of joint heel, etc., have been made, the points thus located should be connected with proper curves, and the outline obtained, as shown in the illustration. The top of the leg 1, 3 is divided into four parts (refer to 2, 3, 4 in Fig. 147). The line from N to s is also divided into four equal parts, and N to D is one of these. To obtain the centre of the gusset connect 2 with D. On either side of D mark 3/9 in. and obtain ee* By joining ee with the sub-divisions of the top of the leg, the gore-line will be shown. To obtain the position of the bottom of the crescent, connect P, which is the centre of HO, with s, and where it crosses the line that passes from 2 to D is the correct position. The diagram will explain the remainder of this pattern. Fig. 147 shows an elastic pattern for a lower heel, and the difference in curve and position should be noted. The illustration also includes the designing of a garibaldi and shoe upon this system. The height of the front is regulated by V. The top of the line T is connected with V by a straight line which passes to A. This line represents the fold or crease line of the vamp. Make a line from A to B, and this will give a guide in making the curve shown. B is found by taking one-third of VC.