This section is from the book "The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes: Being A Modern Treatise Of All The Processes Of Making And Manufacturing Footgear", by F. Y. Golding. Also available from Amazon: The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes.
After fixing the height or depth of the vamp required as A, Fig. 128, divide the joint-width Aw into three equal parts, and at the division one-third Am, from A mark n. Divide the heel-measure line cB so that the distance cp is two-sevenths of the whole heel-measure cB. The top of the leg of the pattern is sub-divided so that t is four-ninths of the line yz measured from y. Connect t, p, and n. Through these points make a suitable curve to pass forming the outline of the button-piece edge (see Fig. 128). The same proportion is also shown in Fig. 129.
The curves at the throat A and the back B (Fig. 129) should not, in a button boot, be quite as sharp as in a lace boot. There are one or two ways of arranging the scollops on the outlined button-piece. They may be cut with a gouge (hand or machine), or, in better-class work, graduated. Fig. 130 shows the former scollop and method of marking out.
The button - piece abed (Fig. 130) is taken and outlined as shown. The amount of spring required is measured from a to A. A fine point is inserted at X, and the end a lowered to A and traced as shown by the dotted line. The tracing is continue.d from A to D and from D to Y. When Ax6, cYD is cut out, the button-fly is said to be " sprung." To complete for gouging select a gouge and test it on the fly, and mark or cut out as shown in Fig. 130 by 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5.
The best effect is produced by arranging the scollops so that they increase in size from the bottom to the top. This graduation may be accomplished by selecting the large and small sized scollops, and sub-dividing them in proportion for the intervening scollops. The shape of the scollops selected may be circular or elliptical, the former being the easier to graduate.