This section is from the book "The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes: Being A Modern Treatise Of All The Processes Of Making And Manufacturing Footgear", by F. Y. Golding. Also available from Amazon: The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes.
To enable the best results to be obtained when holding the work while stitching, certain modifications in the pattern should be made over those usually adopted. The shaded portions in Fig. 191, A, show what is removed. The dotted lines indicate the topband and facings. If the patterns are intended to do duty for several substances of material, the lining at the heel must be left loose until lasting, when it is pasted to the strap and stifTener, obviating any pleats, which would otherwise be seen when this method is adopted in its entirety. The lining is closed as far as the golosh height, and the inside strap held on and stitched to a similar position. The quarters B, Fig. 191, are turned in down the front, and the facing marked. The back is closed, etc., and the top stitched to the topband of the lining. The quarters are turned and run round, catching in the tongue (b) at one side (see C, Fig. 191). The golosh is capped, etc., and closed at the back, and placed carefully in position, and held on while stitching. This description will give an idea of the principle, it being modified according to circumstances.