This section is from the book "The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes: Being A Modern Treatise Of All The Processes Of Making And Manufacturing Footgear", by F. Y. Golding. Also available from Amazon: The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes.
Fig. 131, abed, shows the button-piece taken from Fig. 128. The dotted line will show the amount of " spring." The scollops may be prepared in a way similar to Fig. 132. The smallest scollop is made by means of a compass, and a line drawn at right angles to the diameter of the semi-circle. From the centre of the first drawn semi-circle a, equal distances are marked at b, c, etc., continuing them to the number of scollops desired, d. From d as centre construct the semicircle to the required size for the largest scollop. Join AD, and where it passes through the lines drawn from the equal-spaced divisions will be determined the radii of the remaining intervening scollops. These may be applied direct to the button-fly by first taking one-half of the diameter of the smaller scollops to be used, and marking it from the bottom of the fly (see AB, Fig. 131). The radius of the smallest circle is now taken in the compass, and from the line AB and the edge of the fly the point of intersection X is made (Fig. 131), giving the centre from which the smallest scollop is constructed. This is repeated the whole way up the button-bit, leaving a slight space between each semi-circle to allow for the lengthening of the scollop and the clearance in cutting. When the scollops have once been graduated they may be preserved for future use by cutting out in aluminium as shown by Fig. 133.
The button-fly lining may, for economy in cutting, be seamed, care being used not to have a seam where the button-hole is to come. If the lower portion is made to suit several sizes it enables a stock to be cut.
Scollops the reverse in principle to those shown in Fig. 132 may be used, and if they are not made too bold are adaptable to "run and turn "or "bagged" button-pieces.
Inside and outside quarters should be made for buttoned patterns, the outside quarter having sufficient removed from the front to allow for the displacement that would be caused by the substance of the material used for the fly-lining, etc. Fig. 134 gives an illustration of this.