This section is from the book "The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes: Being A Modern Treatise Of All The Processes Of Making And Manufacturing Footgear", by F. Y. Golding. Also available from Amazon: The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes.
Men's work is fitted either on the flat, of which there are two modes of procedure - on the block, or by a combination of the flat and block methods. The following description of the operation will illustrate the fitting on the block: After the work is skived, inked, etc., the linings are seamed, and, if required, webbed, backstrapped, or open-stitched. The topbands and facings are pasted and stitched on. The lining is now fitted to the block. The backs or legs are closed, rubbed down, stitched, or outside strapped. Outside or stitched facings are stitched. The lining is lightly pasted or quarter-leg pasted. The quarter-leg or back is fitted to the lining, hammered, and the turning in done. After drying it is removed from the last and run round. After again putting on the block, the vamp is pasted on and afterwards stitched. The upper is punched and eyeleted before the vamps are pasted on.
A variation of flat fitting is often adopted for goloshed work, when stitched on a flat-bed machine, a brief description of which is given.
The parts are skived, etc., as usual. The topbands and facings are fitted to the lining, which must not be closed at the back. The quarter or leg is fitted, and the topbands, etc., turned in, and the quarter stitched round. The toe of lining is seamed, and the golosh fitted on, and closed to within an inch of the heel. The lining and leg is closed, and outside, inside-strap, and loop fastened, and the golosh stitching completed.