This section is from the book "The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes: Being A Modern Treatise Of All The Processes Of Making And Manufacturing Footgear", by F. Y. Golding. Also available from Amazon: The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes.
The cut work may be sorted afterwards, by separate men, into qualities, instead of the cutter being responsible for the selection.
It is sometimes advisable in very large establishments, where a strict adherence to uniformity of quality is essential, for one or so. to be responsible for qualities; but it is often open to abuse, owing to the cutter relying upon the sorter to make right errors of judgment in placing the patterns in awkward positions. To obtain the greatest economy in cutting, several-sized or variously shaped patterns should be provided, so that the portions of the material, when cutting, not large enough for the pattern, may be utilized for a smaller-sized one, or one of different shape. The weight of the cut stuff is also sometimes considered in making a decision for the several qualities.