This section is from the book "The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes: Being A Modern Treatise Of All The Processes Of Making And Manufacturing Footgear", by F. Y. Golding. Also available from Amazon: The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes.
The button boot may be fitted on two plans, either by practically completing the button-piece before attaching to the quarter, or by attaching it to the quarter before completing the button-piece. The former method is generally liked owing to the trouble experienced in fitting the lining. If the patterns are correct, and for flat holes, the latter is the cheaper method, however. When the holes are worked the former is usually preferred. For paste fitting the following description will serve as an illustration:Fitting Process.
(1) Skiving, inking, button- (2) Lining closed, webbedholes,* etc., marked. Button- strapped, or open-stitched, piece beaded.
* Sometimes this is done in the cutting-room.
(3) Topbands fitted, side-linings.
(3a) Quarters closed and open - stitched. Button-piece stitched round and worked (if required), button-piece stitched to quarter.
(4) Topbands, etc., stitched. Lining seamed to button-lining.
(6) Stitched round, and toe of lining seamed.
(8) Vamp stitched.
(5) Lining fitted to quarter. Topband turned in. (7) Vamp fitted.
(1) Skive, ink, mark holes, etc.
(3) Fit topbands and side-linings.
(5) Fit lining to outside, turn in topbands, and bead button-piece.
(7) Bar and vamp.
(2) Close linings, web, strap, etc., close button-piece to quarter and close quarters. Open seam if required.
(4) Stitch lining to button-piece lining.
(6) Stitch round, and stitch to button-piece. Seam toe of lining.
(8) Stitch vamps.