This section is from the book "The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes: Being A Modern Treatise Of All The Processes Of Making And Manufacturing Footgear", by F. Y. Golding. Also available from Amazon: The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes.
The sequence of processes of "fitting' a woman's lace boot on the flat is modified to suit the class of work and the stitching and other machines used. When the processes are greatly subdivided, it should be so arranged that there is no loss of time between each stage. The following order of procedure is given for paste-fitted work as an example :Fitting Process.
(1) Work skived and inked, facings marked.
(2) Seam closed of linings, webbed, strapped, or open-stitched as required.
(3) Quarters closed, open-stitched (if required), and facings stitched.
(5) Topbands, etc., stitched on.
(7) Quarters stitched round and lining seamed at toe.
(4) Topbands, facings, and side-linings pasted on.
(6) Seams rubbed down and quarters fitted to linings.
(If on flat slab allowance must be made at heel for stiffening substance and stretchiness of outside, etc.)
Edges of fittings turned in.
(8) Stayed, and vamp fitted.
(9) Vamp stitched on and tongue included or treated separatelv.
Some prefer to punch the upper for eyelets before vamping, a plan to be recommended.