Seams may be joined by stitching with needle(s) and waxed thread, twine, fine cord, or similar material. Stitching is usually used on soft and thin leather.

Equipment needed: heavy, large-eyed needles or 4-sided leather needles; waxed thread (carpet thread is good) or string or cord; awl; cutting board; ruler and pencil.

To wax thread: cut off desired length, and pull between thumb and piece of beeswax or paraffin.

Two types of stitches are described:

One-needle or Imitation Cobbler's Stitch. Steps

1. Punch holes with awl, using underside of cutting board.

2. Measure thread 31/2 times length of seam; thread in one needle.

3. Put needle up last hole on right, leaving a length of thread hanging, about one-half the length of seam. This is a "take-up" thread.

4. Carry thread across the top of article, and down into first hole on left, leaving a loose thread (a-b) across top (Fig. V-27).

5. Put needle up through second hole on left, in front of a-b thread; go over the a-b thread, and back down in the same hole (Fig. V-28). Pull thread down so that the a-b thread is pulled into the space between the layers of leather (Fig. V-29), concealing the interlocking of the threads. This "dip" takes up a little of the "take-up" thread at each stitch.

6. Bring needle up through third hole, in front of thread, over and back down, in back of thread as above (up in front, over, and down in back).

One Needle Or Imitation Cobbler's Stitch

7. Continue to end of seam. Finish by working back one or two stitches, bringing thread out between layers of material.

8. To turn corners: measure the a-b thread for full length of stitching. Start in last hole at one corner, as above; carry thread along the top of the article for the full length of the seam, catching a-b thread at corners with paper clips (Fig. V-30). Remove clips as a-b thread is caught at corners in stitching.

Cobbler's Stitch Or Saddle Stitch (With Two Needles). Steps

1. Punch holes with awl, using underside of cutting board.

2. Measure thread 3 times length of seam.

3. Thread one needle, and put through first hole on left; pull half way through. Thread other end of thread in other needle.

4. Put top needle down through second hole, and bottom needle up through same hole (Fig. V-31).

5. Take top thread in left hand and bottom thread in right, and pull until interlocking loop formed by the threads is between layers of leather (Fig. V-31).

6. Continue to end.

7. End by working back two stitches, drawing threads out between layers, cutting off all but an inch. Tuck ends between layers and fasten with rubber cement.