This section is from the book "Arts & Crafts Magazine Vol1-2", by Hutchinson & Company.
Our stole this month is intended for festival use, since the design is somewhat more elaborate than is now generally seen on an ordinary stole, although in olden times it was common to have it worked all over. A strict Ritualist will have four stoles of the proper ecclesiastical colours; but, in many cases, as with altar-cloths, only two are used, purple for Lent, and red for all other seasons of the year. The silk chosen for the ground should be a good gros-grain, and of a creamy tint, because it is so much easier to select a colouring for a creamy ground than for one with a blue-white tinge. The stole should be two and a half yards long, the ends being not wider than live inches, and it should narrow to two and a half inches in the centre, where the small Maltese cross should be embroidered. It generally saves material to cut it in two pieces, placing the joining just where the centre cross covers it. It is not necessary that the same silk should be used for the under side, but, it a thinner one is preferred, it must match in tone, and greater care will be necessary in making it up.
As the silk is expensive, and there should be no waste, the stole should be cut out first to the exact size in a stiffish linen, to form the interlining, and the silk may then be cut out in two pieces, reversed, as to the wide and narrow portions, leaving a quarter of an inch all round beyond the interlining. The wide ends should then be carefully tacked on to backing which has been previously framed ready; they must be first placed exactly in position, and temporarily fastened with pins, and then neatly herringboned on to the backing, taking care that the stitches do not go beyond the quarter-inch margin allowed for turning. We are now supposing that the design is already marked on the silk, in which case the remainder of the silk should be folded carefully in silver paper, and laid on the end of the frame so as only to expose that portion on which the work is to be.
In any case, the exact size of the stole should be marked out on the silk, either with a tacking thread of coloured silk, or with tailor's chalk, taking care that it lies quite straight with the weaving of the ground. The design, which has been traced in the correct size, and pricked - as formerly described - must be laid face downward on the silk and, while-it is held firmly with weights, and kept steady with the left hand, a rolled flannel pad must be dipped in pounce containing only a small proportion of charcoal to pipe clay, so as to be of a light grey colour, and carefully rubbed over the pattern. This must then be raised carefully so as not to spill any of the superfluous pounce over the white silk, and if any should remain where it is not wanted, blow it lightly off. The outline marked out by the pounce must then be gone over with a very line brush, dipped in black paint, and held very upright, or, in many cases, where the ground is white, a sharply pointed lead-pencil is enough to mark out the design. This is only possible when the work is to be done at once and is not to be packed, otherwise the pencil will rub. Oil paint is the right thing to use under any other circumstances. After the marking is clone and is quite dry, any pounce remaining must be blown or dusted off with a clean handkerchief, but as the marker goes on with her work she will blow off the pounce, as it leaves sufficient indication for her to follow with her brush.
Irish Lace (Carrickmacross) Applique and Guipure.
Designed by R. A. Dawson (Municipal Technical Institute, Belfast). Executed by Miss N. Deacon.
The colours to be used should now be chosen by throwing them on the work and selecting those which work in most harmoniously, taking into account the mass of gold in the monogram. When this is decided a sheet of silver paper should be tacked over the whole of the ground cut so that it may be turned back as the work proceeds. As soon as any of it is finished another piece of silver paper should be kept, which may be unfolded over the work as the other piece is turned back.
L. H. ( To be concluded.)