The Chip-carving Pattern (No. 109). - The little-nicks are of German origin, and may he left out. The cuts are easy: they may be done with either a chisel or chip-carving knife. The design, being in a square, may be made up as a horder or multiplied into a panel, the lines being easily reproduced to any scale with a pencil, ruler, and compass. In cutting out the spaces, he careful not to go too deep. From I-16th in. to 1-8th in. is quite enough.

The Design, No. 110.

Metalwork

This is suitable for plain tracing with the ground-work matted. The design should be carefully transferred on to the metal, the lines evenly indented with the tracer, and then the background should be punched with a small matt or three-point punch. The design might be worked up as a serviette ring by carefully filing each edge square, and bending it quite evenly to either a circular or an oval shape. The two edges should be soldered or brazed.

Wood-Carving

This may easily he made by the beginner. It could be adapted as a border for a frame with the ground cut out to a depth of about 1 1/6 in. Very little modelling need be given to the design itself.

The Design, No. 111.

Metalwork

This design is also suitable as a plain border treated as above,

Marquetry

A pretty marquetry effect may be worked here, especially if a light wood such as sycamore be used with ebony. The two strips, with paper between, should be glued up and then sawn as in fretwork, the woods being transposed when finished and glued down on a base.

The Design, No. 112.

Metalwork

As a border with slight raising the metalworker will find this useful. The lines will require careful tracing. For chasing, the lines are very suitable, and the design might be adapted in many ways for both ripousse and chasing.

Leatherwork

For plain tooled effect this design and No. no also, are useful in Idling borders or decorating bells. The lines should be firmly tooled, and the background punched, leaving a plain border.