Wool or Worsted Suiting, 4x4 Inches.
Ravelings of Cloth or Silk, No. A.
Needle, No. 7-11.
Size of patch depends on the kind of patching selected.
Garments of wool or worsted brought from home.
For repairing outer garments of wool or worsted.
Cloth may be repaired in many ways according to the quality and value of the material and the wear which it will have to endure. The Overhanded Patch (see directions) is frequently used for light-weight cloths. Heavy cloth may be repaired by fine-drawing (see Damask Patch) by burying the stitches in the thickness of the cloth and drawing them close together so the break will be almost invisible. Thin cloth, such as ladies' cloth, which may be too clumsy to turn into folds, may have the patch darned in.
The very worn part should be cut away (the hole is usually made square or oblong and cut clean. If it will show less with irregular edges they should be left and carefully darned down.) The patch may be cut the same size as the hole, and darned in, or it may be cut 1/2 inch larger than the hole. The pattern, the right side of the cloth, the warp, woof and ply, must be matched (see General Rules). When the patch is cut larger than the hole it should be laid over it on the wrong side and basted down. Turn the cloth to the right side and with ravelings of the material or with split silk of a shade darker follow the pattern as nearly as possible, darning the raw edges down to the patch. The stitches should be as invisible as the strength needed will allow. Turn to the wrong side and herring-bone the patch to the cloth. The stitch should not go through to the right side. This patch is similar to the one described under Rules for Darning Woven Material, Practice in Cashmere (4).
Stitched Patch foR Cloth.
For a patch which will show little but will bear hard wear.
This patch closely resembles the overhanded patch, but is stitched instead of overhanded. The stitch, therefore, does not show on the right side. Cut the worn part away. The hole is usually made square or oblong. Nick the cloth in each corner and turn back good folds (1/4 to 1/2 an inch). Cut the patch as for the overhanded patch (see directions). Lay it flat on the back against the turned-back folds on the edge of the hole. Pin it or baste it in place. Stitch the folds to the patch on all four sides. When the stitching is done press open the seams on the wrong side. This will turn the patch back on itself. Miter the cloth in each corner of the patch so it will lie flat. The wrong side of the stitched patch will look very much like Fig. 35, except the seam will show no stitches and the turned-back corners of the patch will be mitered instead of square.
Take a piece of cloth, 4x4 inches. Examine the weight and quality of it, decide on the kind of patch best adapted to it and repair accordingly.
See under Patching, page 92.