Materials For Practice

White Muslin, 4x3 Inches.

Cotton, No. 80-100.

Needle, No. 10-11.

Use

For seams in lace, embroidery, wash goods that are not lined and for underclothing. It is used for underwaists and underclothing in preference to the fell, as it is more satisfactory in curved seams.

Fitness

It makes a neat appearance, as it shows but one line of sewing on the right side; it launders well, and for thin wash material has a better effect than the raw edges showing through the material.

Rule

The seam is to be twice sewed. It may be made on straight or bias material. Lay the two edges to be united exactly together on what will be the right side of the garment, and baste neatly near the edge. Use a fine running stitch for the first sewing and make the seam as narrow as possible for strength. Trim the edges neatly, and lay the seam open with the finger nail. Turn the seam inside of the muslin, and make a new seam over the other on what will be the wrong side of the garment. Various stitches may be used for the second sewing according to the strength desired. The second sewing must cover the raw edges of the first seam. (Fig. 18.) The seam should be as narrow and neat as possible.

Practice

Take white muslin 4 x 3 inches. Cut it into two gores as described in the practice piece for garment bias. Lay one bias piece against the other, having wide end to wide end, and narrow to narrow. Proceed as by rule. Begin the running stitch on the wide ends of the bias pieces. Let the second sewing of the seam be done with running and backstitching No. 1.

Fig. 18. The French Seam.

Fig. 18.-The French Seam.