Materials For Practice

Striped Gingham or

Plain Muslin. 4x4 Inches or any size desired.

Cotton, No. 80 or 100.

Needle, No. 10 or 11.

2 1/2 x 21/2 Inches. (This is a little large but it allows for fraying.) The size of the repairing piece depends on the hole and must vary with the wish of the worker.

Application

On real garments, parts of clothing or on household linen.

Use

For repairing underclothing, aprons, household linen and other washable articles. Outer garments are rarely repaired in this way as the patch shows too much.

Fitness

The counter-hemmed fell, covering all raw edges, makes a strong patch which will stand repeated laundering.

Rule

The shape of a hemmed patch is usually square; it may also be oblong if a slit has been torn down the garment, or it may be triangular as in an under-arm patch where the seam makes the third side. The General Rules (which see) for the size of the hole, the kind of repairing material, the matching of the pattern, and the creasing of the garment and patch, must all be followed. Careful calculation of the size of the patch is needed before cutting. Allowance must be made for (1) the hole; (2) the folds to be taken on the sides of the hole; (3) for the width of the fell (it may merely cover the folds or it may extend over worn material beyond the hole) ; (4) for folds on the patch. (In most cotton and linen materials 1/8 of an inch is wide enough for a fold.) This patch is placed on the wrong side of the garment.

The pattern must be matched before cutting and the garment and the patch prepared by creasing them along both warp and woof. (See General Rules.) The actual repairing may be done in two ways: (1) The hole in the garment may be cleared and made ready, the corners nicked and the folds turned back before the patch is prepared and put on the wrong side. (Children have more difficulty with this way of inserting the patch, as the right side easily stretches out of shape and makes it hard to match the pattern.) Or (2) The repairing piece may be prepared, matched by the creases to the back of the garment and hemmed neatly into place before the worn material is cut away on the right side. This is the easier way of repairing, but there is the danger of pushing the scissors through the patch while cutting the worn material from the face. The worn part must be cut very carefully, allowance being made for folds on the worn part and for the width of the fell. When the cutting is over, the corners must be cut diagonally, small folds turned in on all four sides and the whole hemmed neatly and firmly to the patch. If a hole has not been worn in the garment a little one should be cut in it before the patch is put on the back to allow the scissors to be inserted. In both methods of inserting this patch the repairing piece is prepared by turning toward the right side of the material narrow folds on the raw edges. A little miter may be taken from each corner to keep them from being clumsy after folding. The corners must be strong. The width of the fell beyond the hemming on the right side must be the same on all sides.

In strong linen patching an overhand and fell seam is used instead of the counter-hemming just described. The preparation is the same, but on the right side the overhand stitch is substituted for the hemming.

Practice

Take muslin or gingham 4x4 inches. Indicate on it in pencil or with a basting thread the possible shape of a hole or worn place. Crease the material through the center of the proposed repair, along warp and woof. Measure along the creases to the edges of the indicated hole to get the size which must be covered. If a piece is cut out use it as a guide in matching the pattern. Carefully consider the size to cut the patch, (1) the size of the hole; (2) 1/8 of an inch from each side of the material for the turn - 1/4 inch; (3) 1/4 of an inch for the width of the fell on each side -1/2 an inch; and (4) 1/8 of an inch fold on each side of the patch - 1/4 of an inch. Taken together these equal the size and shape of the piece for the patch. If the material is new no allowance need be made for worn material beyond the hole. Hem the patch on both sides according to the 1st or 2d method under the rule. The patch should be carefully pressed.

Suggestion

See under Patching on page 92.