Muslin, 6x5 Inches. Cotton, No. 80-100. Needle, No. 9-11.
On aprons, dolls' clothing or underclothing.
Folds taken on the right side of material for ornament; or as a means of disposing of material until it is needed to lengthen the garment; or to narrow a garment in place of gathers. They are used principally on children's clothing, undergarments and cotton dress.
Tucks may vary in depth from 1-16 of an inch to a couple of inches. The distance between them is a matter of choice. In wide tucks one-third to one-half of their depth is usually left between them; in very narrow ones the space between may be the same as the depth. Groups of narrow tucks are frequently made with the fold of one reaching to the sewing of the one below. The sewing, however, must not be covered.
Decide on the size and distance apart of the tucks and make a gauge (a card with notches in it) to indicate (1) the depth, (2) the sewing and (3) the distance apart of the tucks. If there is a hem on the garment below the tucks, place the end of the gauge on the sewing of the hem, make the first notch at the distance from the hem to the inner sewing of the tuck added to the depth of the tuck. Put the second notch at the depth of the tuck. The third and fourth notches will repeat the distance of the first and second. These notches will be the indication for two tucks. After that the tucks can be indicated by folding together the wrong side of the material at the first tuck below the one to be folded and creasing, making pin-pricks or pencil marks at the fold of the second tuck below. When the gauge is made, place the card on the hem (or any point selected beyond which the tuck is to be made) and, with a strong pin prick through the material at the marks on the card, moving it gradually across the material. Make a crease from one pin-prick to the other. The first crease will be the depth of the tuck, the second the sewing, the third will be the depth of the second tuck, the fourth the sewing. The tucks are usually sewed on the upper side through the double material with the running stitch or by machine. They should be as carefully folded to a thread as possible, especially in narrow tucks where a small variation in the thread is quite noticeable.
Take muslin 6x5 inches, place a hem at the bottom which will be 5/8 of an inch deep when finished. It should be folded as exactly as possible. Three tucks, 1/8 of an inch in depth with 1/8 of an inch between are to be placed above the hem. This will make the inner sewing of the tuck 1/4 of an inch above the sewing of the hem; the tuck will, when finished, cover half of this space and the other half will be the space between the tuck and the hem. If a gauge is needed for these narrow tucks, the first mark would be 3/8 of an inch above the mark for the hem (the distance between the hem and the inner sewing of the tuck, i. e., 1/4 of an inch added to the depth of the tuck, i. e., 1/8 of an inch). The second mark would be 1/8 of an inch above or the depth of the tuck; the third mark would be 3/8 of an inch above the second mark, and the fourth mark 1/8 of an inch beyond the third, making in all one inch from the hem. Prick with a pin at the marks, moving the gauge across the material. The third tuck can be measured from the others (see rule). A tape measure can be used in place of the gauge for these narrow tucks. Great care must be taken in folding to a thread, if possible. Sew with the running stitch on the outside of the tuck. When the tucks are finished, prepare the upper part of the material for putting on a band. (See No. 35.)
Illustrations of different varieties of tucking should be brought to the class for discussion. It is also well to provide paper so that each member of the class may have experience in spacing tucks from some design of her own, and also may learn to notch the card for the gauge.
Garments which are too short or too narrow may be increased by adding new material and hiding a seam under a tuck. This method of repairing should be discussed.
Knots are sometimes used in tucks to begin the running stitch, but a neat fastening is preferable.