Materials For Practice

Muslin, 2 1/2 x 1 Inch. (Utilize practice piece No. 34.)

Application

On aprons, skirts and other clothing.

Use

A narrow strip of cloth, folded over to cover the plain or gathered raw edges of material and to bind the garment together; a means of fastening a garment in place as well as of supporting and strengthening it.

Varieties

The setting in of gathers or hemming; the stitched-on, and the overhanded band.

Rule

As the band needs to be strong it should be cut along the selvage or the warp of material (the selvage itself would better be cut off as it is usually too heavy). The width of the band depends on the place for which it is intended; the length (in cutting) is generally from one to two inches longer than the place it is to occupy. This allows for turning in at each end and for the lapping over of the band. The raw edges of the band should be folded down first from 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch along the length and then the ends may be turned in. The corners can be mitered (see Mitering) if the folds of the cloth coming together make it too thick. The band must now be folded together along its length with all the raw edges inside. The ends may be basted together or overhanded before the band is placed on the garment, as it helps to keep it in place. Divide the band in half and again in quarters and mark with cross stitches. Take now the garment on which the band is to be placed. Spread the material as desired on the gathers (if there are any) and stretch and pin the length of the band to it. The garment should be already marked in halves and quarters, as the band is parked, if the fullness is to be evenly distributed along the band. If the front is to be plain and the fullness gathered into a few inches in the middle of the back a careful calculation of the amount of the material to go into each quarter of the band must precede the matching of the halves and quarters of the band and garment.

Setting In Of Gathers

After preparing the band, place the gathers within it, matching the marked halves and quarters; baste the right side of the band to the gathers so that the gathering stitches are just covered. Begin as for the hemming stitch and take a few small hemming stitches in the end of the band, holding it to the gathers. After these stitches are made instead of slanting the stitch on the right side put it vertically from the band into the space between each gather (Fig. 31), and slant it on the wrong side into the band just above the next gather. This will make the shape of the stitch like the letter N. Each gather should stand by itself and the stitch should show very little. The wrong side of the band can be sewed on the same way or it can be hemmed. The band on the wrong side must not extend below the band on the right or the stitches will show on the right side. The setting in of gathers has to a great extent taken the place of the old form of the hemming stitch for fastening a band to a garment, as it is more attractive. If the hemming stitch is to be used, in place of the setting in of gathers, the preparation will be the same, but the stitches used to hold down the band will be regular hemming stitches.

Fig. 31.   Setting in of Gathers.

Fig. 31. - Setting in of Gathers.

Stitching Or Backstitching On The Band

Prepare the band carefully (see Rule). The ends need not be basted or overhanded together all the way down. The halves and quarters of the band should be matched to those of the garment. Lay the right side of the band against the right side of the garment with the crease in the folded edge of the band exactly over the gathering stitches. Baste the band to the garment through the crease, being careful to keep the gathers evenly distributed. Turn the garment around so the gathers are toward the worker and hold each gather to the band with stitching or backstitching. On completing the stitching, take out the bastings, press the right side of the band back to the line of stitching and baste across the fold thus made; if the band has not been stitched on straight, it will show when it is pressed back, for it will overhang in places. It should be straight with the crease. Careful basting in the first place will aid in this. The back of the band can be hemmed in place and the ends overhanded. (For the use of the stitched band see description of Apron - Whipped Hem.) Overhanded Band. - In dress skirts, gathering is sometimes done on double material. The band in this case is overhanded on. Prepare the band as before, baste it together and overhand the ends. Match the halves and quarters of the band with the garment and lay the band with its double edges against the right side of the gathers and pin it in place. Overhand each gather to the band, holding the band toward the worker.

Practice

Take the practice piece for No. 34. First turn down the raw edge into a crease to make a line on which the gathering stitches shall go. Take double cotton, make a knot in the end and take through the crease the irregular running stitch; the longest part of the stitch may be about 1-16 of an inch. Draw up and stroke (see Rule - Irregular Gathering - Running Stitch). For the band take a piece of muslin 2 1/2 inches along the warp and one inch along the woof, fold the band, turning in 1/8 of an inch along the length and at each end. Put on the band according to the rule for setting in of gathers.

Suggestion

The secret in making a band look well is the careful folding, preparing and basting. Haste in the first steps is apt to give bad results.

Bands are made usually of straight material. Narrow binding to finish garments is cut on the bias. In gathering material for a band from twice to twice and a half the length of band is the usual allowance.

A tucked apron or petticoat could be made at this time in place of the practice piece.