Materials For Practice

Dress Material,

4x3 Inches (2 pieces).

Waist Lining (Percaline or French Cambric).

4x2 3/4 Inches (2 pieces).

Bone, 4 Inches (2 pieces).

Hooks and Eyes (small size), 4.

Cotton. Needle.

(See directions under Sewing on Braid, etc.)

Rule

The front of a waist is frequently held together with hooks and eyes. These may be placed (1) on the lining alone, if the waist material is to be entirely separate and fastened on one shoulder covering the opening completely, or (2), if the waist material is to be opened down the front, a facing of the cloth should be placed on the lining and extend a couple of inches back from the hooks and the eyes on each side to make a neat appearance, if the waist material should open, or (3), in case of a waist plainly fastened in the front, the hooks and the eyes would be fastened on the lining, the cloth of the waist would be folded back on itself and slip-stitched or hemmed to the lining in such a way that when the waist was hooked the folds of the waist material would meet and cover the hooks and eyes.

In each case the lining would be treated in the same way. It should be an inch wider on each side than the meeting of the parts would require. Turn the lining back on itself one inch on the wrong side and stitch a casing from one end to the other, wide enough to hold the bone (the bone will be the height of the dart). In order to make the bone-casing firm it is well to put another line of stitching along the edge of the waist that the bone may be snugly enclosed between two stitched lines. Spring in the bone and fasten it securely at either end (through the bone or above and below it in the material.) When hooks and eyes are to be sewed on it is well to put a piece of clinoline under the lining turning it back with it. The bone can be slipped in the crinoline and the hooks and eyes can be sewed through it and have a strong foundation. Sew the hooks and eyes on the wrong side alternately unless hump hooks are used, at equal distances on the lining, or through the dress material and the lining if the sewing will be covered by the trimming on the outside of the waist. The hooks should be 1/8 of an inch back from the edge and the eyes 1/8 of an inch over the edge, so the dress will exactly meet. Turn the remainder of the lining back over the hooks and eyes to make a neat finish and hem it down; or cut away all superfluous material and cover the raw edges, the hooks and the eyes with galoon or silk bone-easing, hemming it down on both sides. If the waist front is to be untrimmed the dress material must be folded back to entirely cover the hooks and eyes. The material should be cut to extend well beyond the casing. Turn under the raw edge on each side back on itself allowing the fold to extend far enough beyond the edge of the bone-casing so that it will completely cover the hooks and eyes when they are fastened and under strain. Slip-stitch in place.

Sewing On The Hooks And Eyes

An over and over stitch is usually better to hold the hooks and eyes than the buttonhole-stitch, as it is firmer The metal loops are made for the stitches. It is sometimes well to spread the lower part of the hooks a little, that the stitches may not be quite so close together. In beginning to sew on either a hook or an eye it is well to take two stitches in one loop and then two in the other to hold it in place and then return to sew around each loop and across between the loops, drawing the thread very tight. In addition to this the eyes should also be held down on each side, just above the loops and again near the edge of the material, and the hooks should be sewed across the shank near the turning back of the hook.

Practice

Take two pieces of waist lining 4x2 3/4 inches, finish them according to any of the three suggested ways. Take small black hooks, instead of a larger size generally used in waists, so they will be less apt to injure the bristol-board in the interleaved edition of the Sewing Course. Put on four hooks and eyes, alternating them at equal distances on the practice pieces.